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FIELD GUIDE: HOW TO BE A FASHION DESIGNER
used in the production of the piece.
The aim of a technical specification
is to make the interpretation of the
design easier for the pattern designer
or clothes maker and subsequent
manufacturing of the garment.
THE PATTERN
With the invention of the sewing
machine in 1830, the creative pro-
cess of fashion began to be indus-
trialized, and it was therefore neces-
sary to come up with a system for
producing garments on a massive
scale following a set of standard
measures that were then adjusted to
consumers. Thus patterns were born,
in short time becoming very popular
among both tailors and consumers of
clothes. The use of patterns was also
influential in the sense that garments
started to be appreciated more for
their form and cut than any adorn-
ments that might be added to them.
It could be said that patterns are the
architecture of fashion, to the extent
that they are geometric constructions
based on the measures of the body
that are used as forms in the pro-
duction of garments; in other words,
they are two-dimensional pieces that
© Edwina Hoerl
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PANTONE 708C
PANTONE 705C
70% PANTONE 708C
PANTONE 4725C
70% PANTONE 4725C
PANTONE 708C
PANTONE 290C
PANTONE 705C
PINK 05
PINK
METALLIC GROMLETS
EMBROIDERY
SELF-FABRIC
STAMPED APPLIQUE
PANTONE 705C
PANTONE 708C
PANTONE
Metallic 8380C
PANTONE Metallic 8380C
0.0 cm
0.9 cm
1.3 cm
1.3 cm
Pre/Winter 2006
PRINCESA
NB124
Detail
Collection
Season
Attention
Review Pantone
Specifi cations
Because the color in
monitor and impressions
are not the real ones
DEVELOPMENT PROCESS
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© BLVD
METALLIC BUTTONS
STAMP
COLOR
EMBROIDERY
COLOR
SEAM COLOR
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FIELD GUIDE: HOW TO BE A FASHION DESIGNER
reflect the three-dimensional nature of
a garment. Each pattern consists of all
the pieces that go into a garment, and
the larger the number of pieces the
more complex the composition of the
design will be. For example, the pat-
tern for a jacket will include the pieces
for the back, the front, the sleeves,
the collar, the pockets, the facings,
and the lining, thus qualifying it as a
rather complex garment to produce. It
is important to keep in mind that all of
these pieces are part of a unit, and as
such if one piece is modified this will
affect all the others, which, in turn,
will require modification as well. Pre-
ciseness in patterns is fundamental to
arriving at a well-made garment that
feels good to wear.
There exist basic design patterns for
skirts, jackets, pants, etc., which, in
order to obtain new volumes, can be
taken as a base and with the appli-
cation of pleats, cloth inserts, and
reductions of cloth, can be played
with to create garments that are
much more innovative and elaborate.
It is striking how the variation of small
elements sometimes can change the
image of a garment completely. A
simple example of this is the skirt
shown in the image, which with the
insertion of godets and some pleats,
goes from being a piece with a totally
straight silhouette to one with volume
and movement.
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Patterns are generally drawn on paper,
preferably paper with a certain amount
of resistance but also easy to cut.
Some people prefer semi-transparent
paper in order to be able to modify the
drawing with greater ease.
Once the pattern is finished and any
modifications deemed necessary have
been carried out, the pieces are then
cut individually. As a reference for
knowing where to join one with the
other, or where to make a mark or
fold in the cloth later on, small holes
are made in the cloth.
To transfer the pattern to the fabric,
it is necessary to have washed the
cloth—to avoid possible deformations
such as shrinking—and ironed it. It is
then positioned upside down, and the
pieces of the pattern are set on top of
it, keeping in mind the orientation of
the motifs or, if present, the texture of
the fabric, as in the case of corduroy.
In such cases the pieces can only be
placed in one direction so that they
look right when joined together, which
perhaps prevents taking advantage of
the entire surface of the cloth and will
require that more of it be bought than
if the cloth were solid and without any
printing on it.
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