The Editor’s menus are far more complex than the menus in the Organizer. All three editing modes—Full Edit. Quick Fix, and Guided Edit—have the same menus, although some choices are grayed out when you’re in Quick Fix or Guided Edit mode. When you need a menu item that’s unavailable in Quick Fix or Guided Edit, just switch back to Full Edit to use it.
Several of the menus in Elements are dynamic: They change quite a bit to reflect the choices currently applicable to your image. That means the choices you see in this appendix represent only what you may see depending on the situation. The Layer menu, for instance, offers you very different options depending on the current state of your image and which layer is active.
If you have Adobe Premiere Elements installed, then you’ll see some extra menu options not included in this basic list.
This is actually a button—a blue square with “PSE” on it—at the upper left of the Elements window. Click it to get a pop-out menu for opening, closing, moving, maximizing, and minimizing the Editor, as well as restoring it to its original size.
To the right of the System Menu button is button that looks like a little house. Click it when you want to see the Welcome screen (The Welcome Screen), and to connect to Photoshop.com.
The commands listed here let you create, import, open, save, and print files.
Choose this menu item if you want to start a new file in Elements. Your options are:
Blank file (or press Ctrl+N).
Image from Clipboard. This automatically pastes anything you’ve copied into a new file.
Photomerge Group Shot. This lets you move a person from one photo of a group into another photo of the same group (Tidying Up with Scene Cleaner).
Photomerge Faces. Use this one to combine parts of different faces for caricatures and other fun effects (Merging Different Faces).
Photomerge Scene Cleaner. This new feature lets you remove unwanted people or other details from a photo by copying over bits of other photos (Tidying Up with Scene Cleaner).
Photomerge Panorama. Use this option to combine your photos into panoramas (Creating Panoramas).
This menu option (or Alt+Ctrl+O) lets you choose the format for a file as you open it. Select it when you want to use the Raw Converter on non-Raw formats like JPEG or TIFF (Choosing bit depth: 8 or 16 bits?).
Here’s you’ll find a pop-out list of the most recent files you’ve had open in Elements.
To save your image under another file name or in a different format, choose this command or press Shift+Ctrl+S.
To save an image so that it’s optimized for posting on a Web page or sending by email, choose this menu item or press Alt+Shift+Ctrl+S. For more on the Save For Web window, see Saving Images for the Web or Email.
Choose this menu item to bring up the File Info window, which displays general information (file creation date, file format, and so on) about your image.
Use this command to place a PDF, Adobe Illustrator, or EPS file into an image as a new layer. When the artwork’s larger than the image you place it in, Elements automatically makes it small enough to fit.
Choose this menu option to add the files you have open in the Editor to the Organizer.
This is where you batch process your files to rename them, change their format, add copyright information, and so on (see Processing Multiple Files for everything that Elements lets you do to groups of files).
This is where you bring certain file formats into Elements. It’s also where you can connect to external devices like scanners. (They’ll show up in this menu if you install their drivers.) Your basic choices before you connect or install anything are:
Frame from Video (Capturing Video Frames)
WIA Support (the built-in support for scanners that’s part of the Windows operating system)
This command is always grayed out. That’s normal. Adobe left it in for the benefit of any third-party plug-ins that may need it to be there—but you don’t need it in Elements to use the program’s standard tools and commands. (The Organizer contains an active Export command.)
Like Export, this command is only here for a few third-party plug-ins that may need it. Normally, it’s grayed out.
This menu option calls up your system’s regular Page Setup window, where you choose the page size and the orientation of your document and select the printer you plan to use. Read more about printing from the Editor on Page Setup. Keyboard shortcut: Shift+Ctrl+P.
Choose this command and you get the Print window, which is discussed in detail in Chapter 16. Keyboard shortcut: Ctrl+P.
With this command, you get the Organizer’s Print Photos window, which is discussed in detail on Printing at Home (from the Organizer). Keyboard shortcut: Alt+Ctrl+P.
This is your portal to connecting to Kodak EasyShare Gallery to order prints, calendars, or photo books. See Ordering Prints Online for how to order prints online.
The menu choices listed here let you make changes to your files. This is also where you can access your Elements preferences to change their settings.
You can back out of your last action by selecting Undo or by pressing Ctrl+Z. You can keep applying this command to undo as many steps as you’ve set in the Undo History palette preferences (Edit → Preferences → Performance → History States).
To remove something from your image and store it on the Clipboard (so that you can paste it into another file), choose this menu item or press Ctrl+X.
To copy something to the Clipboard, highlight it and select this menu item or press Ctrl+C. The Copy command copies only the top layer in a file with layers. To copy all the layers in your selected area, use Copy Merged instead.
To copy all the layers in the selected area to the Clipboard, choose this menu option or press Shift+Ctrl+C. To copy just the top layer to the Clipboard, use Copy instead.
Use this special command for pasting something within the confines of an existing selection. See Controlling the Selection Tools for more on how this command works. Keyboard shortcut: Shift+Ctrl+V.
This command removes what you’ve selected without copying it to the Clipboard—it’s just gone. You can press Backspace to do the same thing.
Choose this menu item to fill your active layer with a color or pattern (Adding Fill and Adjustment Layers). When you make a selection in your image, this menu item changes to Fill Selection. You can also choose a blend mode and opacity for your fill.
This command lets you place a colored border around the edges of a selection.
If you want to create a custom brush from your photo or from an area of your photo, choose this command. The process is explained in detail on Making a Custom Brush.
This command creates a pattern from your image or selection. See Applying Patterns for more about applying patterns.
Use this command to permanently remove information from the Undo History, Clipboard Contents, or All (both of them). If you have a corrupt image in the Clipboard (or one that’s too large), it may cause Elements to slow way down or quit on you. Once in a while, the Clipboard may get stuck, too—you try to copy and paste an item but still get whatever you copied previously. Clear fixes all these problems.
This command lets you add a new, blank page to your current project. Find out more about working with multipage files on Creating Multipage Documents. Keyboard shortcut: Alt+Ctrl+G.
If you’re working with a Photo Collage (Photo Collages) and you want to use that page as a template for new pages, choose this command instead of Add Blank Page. Keyboard shortcut: Alt+Shift+Ctrl+G.
If you’re working with a multipage document and you decide you want to get rid of your current page, choose this command.
Here’s where you choose your color space for Elements (Choosing a Color Space). Keyboard shortcut: Shift+Ctrl+K.
This is where you access the window that helps you manage your brushes, swatches, gradients, and patterns. See When You Really Need Photoshop for more on how the Preset Manager works.
This menu item gives you access to the many Elements settings you can customize. You’ll find the following preference windows available from this menu:
General (or press Ctrl+K)
Saving Files
Performance (where you set the number of history states and assign scratch disks)
Display & Cursors
Transparency
Units & Rulers
Grid
Plug-Ins
Type
Organize & Share (brings up the Organizer’s preferences)
This menu lets you make changes to your image. Here you can rotate a picture, change its shape, crop or resize it, or change the color mode.
Use these commands to change the orientation of your image (Rotating and Flipping Options). The first group of options applies to your whole image:
90° Left
90° Right
180°
Custom
Flip Horizontal
Flip Vertical
The next group does the same thing but on a layer or selection. The menu choices change depending on whether you have an active selection in your image. If you have a selection, you’ll see the word “Selection” instead of “Layer.”
Free Rotate Layer
Layer 90° Left
Layer 90° Right
Layer 180°
Flip Layer Horizontal
Flip Layer Vertical
Finally you can choose to:
Straighten and Crop Image
Straighten Image
These last two commands are mostly for use with scanned images when you need to straighten the position of the entire image. To straighten the contents of an image, use the Straighten tool (Straighten Tool).
These commands let you change the shape of your image by pulling it in different directions. They’re explained in detail on Transforming Images. Your choices are:
You might prefer to use the Correct Camera Distortion filter for transforming your images to correct perspective. See Correcting Lens Distortion.
Choose this menu item to crop your image to the area you’ve selected (Cropping with the Marquee Tool).
You can create a group scan by placing several photos on your scanner glass at once and then choosing this command. Elements then cuts your photos apart and straightens and crops each individual photo. See Straightening Scanned Photos for more about how this works.
Here’s where you change the actual size of your image (as opposed to changing the size of the view on your screen). Resizing is explained in Chapter 3. Your choices are:
Image Size (Changing the Size of Your Image). Keyboard shortcut is Alt+Ctrl+I.
Canvas Size (Adding Canvas).
Reveal All. If you drag a layer from another image into your photo and part of the layer falls outside the perimeter of the target image, then use the Reveal All command to see the entire dragged layer. It basically resizes the canvas to fit all of the image(s). Also, some versions of Photoshop hide the area outside a selection when you use the Crop tool. When someone sends you one of these images, use this command to see the area that was hidden by the crop.
Scale (Skew, Distort, Perspective).
This is where you can change the color mode for your image (Choosing Color Mode). Your choices are:
Bitmap
Grayscale
Indexed Color
RGB Color
You’ll find two other commands in this menu:
8-bits/Channel reduces images from 16-bit color to 8-bit (see Choosing bit depth: 8 or 16 bits?).
Color Table shows you the color table (the colors of your image as swatches) for an Indexed Color image.
If you need to change the ICC (International Color Consortium) profile of an image, you can do it from this menu, which lets you apply an sRGB or Adobe RGB profile, or you can remove the profile from an image. For more on color profiles, go to Choosing a Color Space.
Use this command or press Alt+Shift+Ctrl+V to call up the Magic Extractor window, which automates the process of selecting an object in your photo and removing it from the background. See The Polygonal Lasso for details.
This menu contains the commands you use to adjust the color and lighting of your images. The first six options apply changes automatically, and the remainder let you adjust your changes.
Choose this option or press Alt+Ctrl+M to adjust lighting, color, and contrast at the same time (Smart Fix).
Use this command or press Shift+Ctrl+L to adjust the individual color channels of your image (Adjusting Lighting and Contrast).
Choose this command or press Alt+Shift+Ctrl+L to adjust the brightness and darkness of your image without changing the colors (Contrast).
Use this option or press Shift+Ctrl+B to adjust your color in much the same way that Levels does. Auto Color Correction looks at different information in your photo to make its decisions, though (Color).
This command applies the same one-click sharpening you get when you use the Auto Sharpen button in Quick Fix (Using the Color sliders).
Use this command or press Ctrl+R to apply the same auto red-eye correction found in the Organizer (Editing Your Photos).
This command is the same as Auto Smart Fix, except you get a slider to adjust the degree of change Elements makes to your photo. Keyboard shortcut: Ctrl+Shift+M.
Your choices for adjusting the light and dark values in your photos are:
Shadows/Highlights (The Shadows/Highlights Command).
Brightness/Contrast (Fixing Major Exposure Problems).
Levels. You can also press Ctrl+L to bring up the Levels dialog box (Using Levels).
With these settings you can change a color, replace a color, remove a color cast, remove all the color from your image, or add color to a black-and-white photo. Choose from:
Remove Color Cast (Using the Color Cast Tool).
Adjust Hue/Saturation (Making Your Colors More Vibrant). Keyboard shortcut: Ctrl+U.
Remove Color (Method One: Making Color Photos Black and White). Keyboard shortcut: Shift+Ctrl+U.
Replace Color (Replacing Specific Colors).
Adjust Color Curves (Color Curves: Enhancing Tone and Contrast). The Color Curves tool lets you adjust the brightness and contrast of specific tonal ranges (like highlights or midtones) in your photo.
Adjust Color for Skin Tone (Adjusting Skin Tones). This setting adjusts the colors in your image based on the skin tones of someone whom you select in the photo.
Defringe Layer (Removing Objects from an Image’s Background). This setting gets rid of the rim of contrasting pixels you may get when you remove an object from its background.
Color Variations (Using Color Variations).
Use this menu item or press Atl+Ctrl+B to convert a color photo to a black-and-white image (Method One: Making Color Photos Black and White).
This is the most popular traditional method for sharpening your photos (Sharpening Your Images).
Choose this menu item to use Adobe’s newest sharpening tool (Adjust Sharpness).
Here’s where you’ll find the commands for creating and managing Layers. (Chapter 6 is all about Layers.) This is the most dynamic menu in Elements—what you see at the bottom of the menu changes depending on the layers in the image that’s open and on the characteristics of the active layer. This is a basic rundown of the main menu options you’ll usually see if your open image has only a Background layer. (Sometimes you’ll see choices visible but grayed out.) The choices for merging and combining layers change the most as your layers change.
This is where you create new, regular (as opposed to Adjustment) layers. Your options are:
Layer (or press Shift+Ctrl+N).
Layer from Background.
Layer via Copy (or press Ctrl+J).
Layer via Cut (or press Shift+Ctrl+J).
If your image doesn’t currently have a Background layer, you see “Background from Layer” instead of “Layer from Background”.
Use this command to make a duplicate of the active layer. As long as you don’t have a selection, you can also use Ctrl+J to do the same thing.
If you want to eliminate a layer, click it in the Layers palette to make it the active layer and choose the Delete Layer command.
Choose this option to—you guessed it—rename a layer. You can also double-click the layer’s name in the Layers palette to rename it.
If a layer has a Layer style applied to it (Adding Layer Styles), you can adjust it here.
Style Settings brings up the dialog box where you can adjust some of the settings of a Layer style. Double-clicking the Layer style icon in the Layers palette brings up the same dialog box.
Copy Layer Style lets you copy any styles applied to a layer to the Clipboard so you can apply them to another image or layer.
Paste Layer Style applies your copied style to a new layer, even in a new image.
Clear Layer Style removes all the styles applied to a layer.
Hide All Effects hides all the styles applied to a layer so that you can see what your image looks like without them. If you hide all the styles, this menu item reads “Show All Effects” instead.
Scale Effects lets you adjust the size of certain aspects of Layer styles.
Choose this option to create a layer that’s filled with a color, gradient, or pattern. You can also do this from the Layers palette by clicking the Create Adjustment Layer icon. Your options are:
Solid Color (Adding Fill and Adjustment Layers)
Gradient (Gradient Fill Layer)
Pattern (Adding Fill and Adjustment Layers)
This command creates a new Adjustment layer (Adding Fill and Adjustment Layers). The types of layers you can create are:
Levels (Using Levels)
Brightness/Contrast (Fixing Major Exposure Problems)
Hue/Saturation (Using an Adjustment Layer)
Gradient Map (Saving Gradients)
Photo Filter (Photo Filter)
Invert (Special Effects)
Threshold (Special Effects)
Posterize (Special Effects)
For Adjustment and Fill layers, you can change the type of layer you’ve got, as long as you haven’t flattened your layers. For example, you could change a Levels layer into a Hue/Saturation layer. You can also change an Adjustment layer to a Fill layer, and vice versa. The choices include all the layers listed in the two previous sections.
Use this option to bring up the dialog box for an Adjustment or Fill layer. You can also double-click the left icon for the layer in the Layers palette.
This command gives you ways to modify a Type layer, as long as it hasn’t been simplified (Ellipse). You can choose:
Horizontal. Change vertical type to horizontal type.
Vertical. Change horizontal type to vertical type.
Anti-alias Off. Anti-aliasing is explained on Smoothing type: anti-aliasing.
Anti-alias On.
Warp Text. See Warping Type.
Update All Text Layers.
Replace All Missing Fonts. When your image is missing fonts, this command replaces them, but you can’t choose the replacement. It’s usually just as easy to replace fonts by highlighting the text and selecting a new font in the Options bar.
The Simplify Layer command rasterizes your layer, turning the layer content from a vector or smart object to one that’s built pixel by pixel. See Ellipse for more about the difference between vectors and pixels.
This command links two layers together in such a way that the bottom layer determines the opacity of the upper layer (Grouping layers). Keyboard shortcut: Ctrl+G.
This command separates grouped layers so that they’re now two unrelated layers. Keyboard shortcut: Shift+Ctrl+G.
Use these commands to change the order of layers in the layers stack, or just drag them in the Layers palette. See Arranging layers with the Move tool for details on rearranging layers. (Front is the top of the stack, and back is directly above the Background layer.)
Bring to Front (or press Shift+Ctrl+]).
Bring Forward (or press Ctrl+]).
Send Backward (or press Ctrl+[).
Send to Back (or press Shift+Ctrl+[).
Reverse. Select two or more layers, and this command reverses the order in which they appear in the layer stack.
Here’s where you make, modify, and save selections in your image. See Chapter 5 for more about selections.
Choose this command or press Ctrl+A to select your entire image.
If you apply the Deselect command, but then want your selection back again, choose this menu item or press Shift+Ctrl+D.
This command switches the selected and unselected areas of your image. The area that wasn’t previously selected is now selected, and the previously selected area is now unselected. Keyboard shortcut: Shift+Ctrl+I.
Use this command to select all the layers of your image that are the same type, such as all Adjustment layers or all regular layers.
Choose this option or press Alt+Ctrl+D to feather (blur) the edges of a selection (The Lasso Tools).
This command lets you groom the edges of a selection (Refine Edge).
These commands let you change the size or edges of your selection. They’re all explained in Chapter 5.
Border selects the edge of your selection (The Move tool).
Smooth rounds the corners of selections (The Move tool).
Expand moves the edge of your selection outward (Moving Selected Areas).
Contract moves the edge of your selection inward (Moving Selected Areas).
This command expands your selection to include more contiguous areas of similar color (Moving Selected Areas).
This option expands your selection to include more areas of similar color, but— unlike the Grow command—it doesn’t restrict the growth to contiguous areas (Moving Selected Areas).
If you wish to save a selection so that you can use it another time without recreating it, use this command (Saving Selections).
Filters let you change the appearance of your image in all sorts of ways. Elements comes with some filters that are mostly for correcting and improving your photos, while others create artistic effects. The filters are grouped into categories to make it easier to find one that does exactly what you want. You can also apply filters from the Effects palette. Learn more about using filters in Chapter 13. Every image responds to filters differently, so the descriptions here are a very rough guide.
The top item in the Filter menu always features the last filter you’ve applied. Choose it or press Ctrl+F to reapply that filter with the exact same settings you previously used. If you want to change the settings, then you need to choose the filter from its regular place in the list of filters or press Ctrl+Alt+F.
This option lets you try the effects of different filters, rearrange them, and preview what they’ll look like in your photo (Filter Gallery).
Use this filter to correct various kinds of lens distortion problems (Correcting Lens Distortion).
This group of filters is used primarily (but not exclusively) for correcting and enhancing photos. The filters are discussed on Special Effects, unless otherwise noted.
Equalize
Gradient Map (Saving Gradients)
Invert (or press Ctrl+I)
Posterize
Threshold
Photo Filter (Photo Filter)
Use these filters to apply a variety of artistic effects to your image, ranging from a pencil-sketch look to a watercolor effect.
Colored Pencil makes your photo look like it was sketched with a colored pencil on a solid colored background.
Cutout makes your image look like it was cut from pieces of paper.
Dry Brush makes your photo look like it was painted using dry brush technique.
Film Grain adds grain to make your photo look like old film.
Fresco makes your photo look like it was painted quickly in a dabbing style.
Neon Glow adds vivid color to your image while softening the details.
Paint Daubs gives your photo a painted look.
Palette Knife makes your photo look like you painted it with a palette knife. While you may think of a palette knife as a tool for blending heavy paint daubs, Adobe describes the effect of this filter as looking like a thin layer of paint that reveals the canvas beneath it.
Plastic Wrap makes your image look like it’s covered in plastic.
Poster Edges gives your image accented, dark edges while reducing the number of colors in the rest of the photo.
Rough Pastels makes your image look like it was quickly sketched with pastels.
Smudge Stick uses short diagonal strokes that soften the image by smearing the detail.
Sponge paints with highly textured areas of contrasting color like you’d get by sponging on color.
Underpainting makes your image look like it’s painted on a textured background.
Watercolor simplifies the details in your image the way they would be if you were creating a watercolor painting.
Soften and blur your images with these filters.
Average Blur (Color correcting with the Average Blur filter)
Blur
Blur More
Gaussian Blur (Radial Blur: Producing a sense of motion)
Motion Blur .You apply this pretty much the same way as the Radial blur, described on Radial Blur: Producing a sense of motion, but it creates a one-way blur, like you’d see behind Road-Runner when he’s scooting away from Wile E. Coyote.
Radial Blur (Radial Blur: Producing a sense of motion)
Smart Blur .This filter reduces grain and noise without affecting the edge sharpness of your photo. It’s also used for special artistic effects.
Surface Blur .This new filter blurs without reducing edge contrast (Improving skin texture with the Surface Blur filter).
These filters give your image a hand-painted look.
Accented Edges emphasizes the edges of objects as though they were drawn in black ink or white chalk.
Angled Strokes creates diagonal brush strokes that all run in the same direction.
Crosshatch creates diagonal brush strokes that crisscross.
Dark Strokes paints dark areas of your image with short, tight, dark strokes, and light areas with long, white strokes.
Ink Outlines makes your image look like it was drawn with fine ink lines.
Spatter gives the effect you’d get from a spatter airbrush.
Sprayed Strokes paints your image with diagonal, sprayed strokes in its dominant colors.
Sumi-e gives the effect of drawing with a wet brush full of black ink, in a Japanese influenced style.
These filters warp your image in a variety of ways.
Diffuse Glow makes your image look as though you’re viewing it through a soft diffusion filter.
Displace lets you create a map to tell Elements how to distort your image.
Glass makes your image look like you’re viewing it through various kinds of glass, depending on the settings you choose.
Liquify (Applying the Liquify Filter to Type).
Ocean Ripple gives an underwater effect by adding ripples to your image.
Pinch pulls the edges of your photo inward toward the center.
Polar Coordinates lets you create what’s called a cylinder anamorphosis. With this kind of distortion, the image looks normal when you see it in a mirrored cylinder.
Ripple creates a pattern like ripples on the surface of water.
Spherize makes your image expand out like a balloon.
Twirl spins your photo, rotating a selection more in the center than at the edge, producing a twirled pattern.
Wave creates a rippled pattern but with more control than the Ripple filter gives you.
ZigZag creates a bent, zigzagging effect that’s stronger in the center of the area you apply the filter to.
Use these filters to add noise (graininess) to your photos or remove noise from them. (Unless otherwise specified, these filters are explained on The Healing Brush: Fixing Larger Areas.)
Add Noise (Adding noise: Smoothing out repair jobs)
Despeckle
Dust & Scratches
Median
Reduce Noise (Useful Filter Solutions)
These filters break up the appearance of your photo into spots or blocks of various kinds.
Color Halftone adds the kind of dotted pattern you see in commercially printed color.
Crystallize breaks your image into polygonal blocks of color.
Facet reduces your image to blocks of solid color.
Fragment makes your image look blurry and offset.
Mezzotint creates an effect something like that of a mezzotint engraving.
Mosaic breaks your image down to square blocks of color.
Pointillize creates a pointillist effect by making your photo look like it’s made of many dots of color.
This is a diverse but powerful group of filters that transform your photo in many ways.
3D Transform makes your image look like it’s on a cube, cylinder, or sphere.
Clouds covers your image with clouds using the foreground/background colors.
Difference Clouds also creates clouds, but blends them in your image in Difference mode.
Fibers creates an effect like spun and woven fibers.
Lens Flare creates starry bright spots like you’d get from a camera lens flare.
Lighting Effects is a powerful and complex filter for changing the light in your photo. For an in-depth tutorial on how to use this filter, see the Missing CD page at www.missingmanuals.com.
Texture Fill lets you use a grayscale image as a texture for your photo.
Here’s another group of artistic filters. Most of them make your image look like it was drawn with a pencil or graphics pen.
Bas Relief gives your photo a slightly raised appearance, as though it’s carved in low relief.
Chalk & Charcoal makes your photo look like it was sketched with a combination of chalk and charcoal.
Charcoal gives a smudgy effect to your image, like a charcoal drawing.
Chrome is supposed to make your image look like polished chrome, but you might prefer the Wow chrome Layer styles in the Effects palette.
Conté Crayon makes your image look like it was drawn with conté crayons (a drawing medium originally made of graphite and wax, now made from chalks, that is used for making bold strokes) using the foreground/background colors.
Graphic Pen makes the details in your image look like they were drawn with a fine pen using the foreground color, with the background color for the paper color.
Halftone Pattern gives the dotted effect of a halftone screen, like you see in printed illustrations. The effect only looks like a halftone—this filter doesn’t create a true halftone that your print shop might request.
Note Paper makes your image look like it’s on handmade paper. The background color shows through in spots in dark areas.
Photocopy makes your photo look like a Xerox copy.
Plaster makes your image look like it was molded in wet plaster.
Reticulation creates an effect you might get from film emulsion—dark areas clump and brighter areas appear more lightly grained.
Stamp makes your image look like an impression from a rubber stamp.
Torn Edges makes your photo look it’s made from torn pieces of paper.
Water Paper makes your photo look like it was painted on wet paper, making the colors run together.
These filters create special effects by displacing the pixels in your image or increasing contrast.
Diffuse makes your photo less focused by shuffling the pixels according to the settings you choose.
Emboss makes objects in your image appear stamped or raised.
Extrude gives a 3-D effect by pushing some of the pixels in your image up, something like toothpaste squeezed from a tube.
Find Edges emphasizes the edges of your image against a white background.
Glowing Edges adds a neon-like glow to the edges in your photo.
Solarize produces an effect like what you’d get by briefly exposing a photo print to light while you’re developing it. It combines a negative and a positive image.
Tiles breaks your image up into individual tiles. You can choose how much to offset them.
Trace Contour outlines areas where there are major transitions in brightness. The result is supposed to be something like a contour map.
Wind makes your image appear windblown.
These filters change the surface of your photo to look like it was made from another material.
Craquelure produces a surface effect like cracked plaster.
Grain adds different kinds of graininess to your photo.
Mosaic Tiles is supposed to make your photo look like it’s made of mosaic tiles with grout in between them.
Patchwork reduces your image to squares filled with the image’s predominant colors.
Stained Glass is supposed to make your photo look like it’s made of stained glass. The effect’s usually more like a mosaic.
Texturizer makes your photo look like it’s on canvas or brick. You can select a file to use as a texture.
This is a group of fairly technical filters.
Custom lets you create your own filter.
High Pass is discussed on The High-Pass Filter.
Maximum replaces pixel brightness values with the highest and lowest values of surrounding pixels. It spreads out white areas and shrinks dark areas.
Minimum does the opposite of the Maximum filter. It spreads out dark areas and shrinks white ones.
Offset moves your selection by the number of pixels you specify.
This menu features different ways to adjust how you see your image on your screen. For more details on adjusting your view, see Zooming and Repositioning Your View.
This command lets you create a duplicate window for your image so that you can see it at two different magnification levels at once. The new window goes away when you close your image—it doesn’t create a copy of your photo.
To increase the view size, you can choose this menu item or press Ctrl+=. You can also use the Zoom tool (The Zoom Tool).
To reduce the view size, choose this menu item or press Ctrl+–. You can also use the Zoom tool (The Zoom Tool).
Use this command or press Ctrl+0 to make your photo as large as it can be without your having to scroll to see part of it.
Choose this option or press Alt+Ctrl+0 to see your image the exact size it would appear on the Web or in other programs that can’t adjust view size (as Elements can).
Elements makes its best guess as to how large your image would print at its current resolution (Resizing for Printing).
When this menu item is turned on, the outlines of your selections are visible. You can toggle the setting off and on here, or by pressing Ctrl+H.
If you want to see rulers around the edges of your image window, toggle them on and off here, or by pressing Shift+Ctrl+R. You can adjust the unit of measurement in Edit → Preferences → Units & Rulers.
If you want to see a measurement and alignment grid on your photos, use this setting to toggle it on and off. You can adjust the grid size in Edit → Preferences → Grid.
The preset document sizes for new files include a couple of video sizes with guidelines to help you know the workable areas of the document. The Guide Presets menu item becomes active when you’re working with a DV (digital video) file, or if someone sends you a Photoshop file with guides. It’s normally grayed out.
This command is available only for files that contain voice annotations. Toggle the annotation on and off here. You may get a file with a voice annotation from someone working with Photoshop, which lets you record sound annotations that you can add to your files.
If you want to control the Elements autogrid (a hidden system that determines how precisely you can place things when you move them in your images), use these commands.
Guides. When you’re working with one of the video document sizes that includes guidelines, or if someone sends you a Photoshop file that includes them, this setting is where you toggle on and off whether you want objects you add to snap to the guidelines.
Grid. When this setting is turned on, Elements automatically jumps to the nearest gridline. If the way your tools and selections keep jumping away from you bothers you, then turn off the Grid here. Then everything stays exactly where you place it. You have to make the Grid visible (View → Grid) before you can change its settings.
This menu controls which palettes and bins you see, as well as letting you adjust how your image windows display. Windows that are currently visible have a checkmark next to their names. A dash next to a name means the window is visible in another pane, but not in the current pane.
Use these commands to control how your images display. The choices are explained in detail on Zooming and Repositioning Your View.
Maximize Mode. Each image takes up the entire available space.
Tile. Your images appear edge to edge so that all windows are equally visible.
Cascade. Your image windows appear in overlapping stacks. (Cascade is the usual view when you start Elements for the first time.)
Match Zoom. Choose Match Zoom to get the same magnification level in all open windows as in the active image window.
Match Location. When you have only part of a photo visible in a window, choose Match Location to make all open windows display the same part of their images, too, like the upper-left corner, for example.
Use Color Swatches to show and hide the Color Swatches palette (The Color Swatches Palette).
The Content palette holds frames, backgrounds, graphics, shapes, themes, and text effects to use in projects. It’s always visible in Create → Artwork, but if you want to see it in Edit mode as well, this is where you make it visible. See The Content Palette for more about how to use this palette.
Effects shows and hides the Effects palette, from which you apply filters, Photo Effects, and Layer styles. See Effects palette.
You can put your favorite items from the Content and Effects palettes into the Favorites palette for easier access (The Favorites Palette). Like the Content palette, it’s always visible in Create → Artwork, but you can use the setting here to make it visible in Full Edit or hide it again once it’s visible.
Use the Histogram to show or hide the Histogram in its own palette (Understanding the Histogram).
Use this setting to bring up a palette with information about your photos, like the file size and color value numbers.
Make the Layers palette visible or hidden by toggling this setting. See The Layers Palette.
Turn the Navigator off and on here. The Navigator lets you adjust which portion of a large image is visible on your screen and also adjust the zoom. See Changing the Size of Your Image.
The Undo History setting makes the Undo History palette visible or hides it. The Undo History palette shows a record of all the changes to your image up to the number of states you set in Edit → Preferences → Performance → History States. See The one rule of Elements for more about the Undo History palette.
This setting minimizes (hides) and maximizes (reopens) the Palette bin (The Palette bin). You can also just click the edge of the bin to hide or expand it.
Choose this menu item to see the Welcome window that appears when Elements starts up. This is where you connect to Photoshop.com (Photoshop.com).
The Help menu is where you find the Elements Help files, as well as information about the program itself.
When you call up the Elements Help files here, or press F1, your Web browser launches to show you the Help files.
Choose this to see a scrolling window with information about the version of Elements you’ve got. You’ll also see a very long list of patents and credits—an impressive testimony to the complexity of the engineering that went into Elements.
Select this option for a long pop-out menu displaying all the plug-ins in your copy of Elements. Choose a plug-in from the list to see its version and date information.
This menu item displays a long list of the various patents for Elements, as well as trademark information for some of the components used in the program.
The Elements Help files include a glossary of terms relating to digital imaging. If you’re wondering what a particular term means, choose this menu item and it’ll take you to the glossary index so you can look it up.
Choose this item for a window showing information about Elements itself and also about your Windows operating system. If you can’t remember which service pack you have, for instance, then you can check here. You’ll also find information about some important plug-ins. If you’re not sure whether you have QuickTime, for example, that information’s here, too.
If you didn’t register Elements with Adobe the first time you used the program, you can choose this menu item to bring up the registration window again.
This is where you check for updates to Elements components. Go to Adobe Updater window → Preferences and you can set your preferences for how you want Elements to handle updates.
Choose this option and Elements launches your Web browser and attempts to go to Adobe’s support Web site. If you’re not connected to the Internet when you select Online Support, then Elements launches an Internet connection window.
This menu item takes you to the main product page for Photoshop Elements on Adobe’s Web site. As it does with the online support link, Elements launches your browser and offers to connect to the Internet if you’re not already online.
When you’re signed on to your Photoshop.com account (Photoshop.com), you’ll see text that says “Welcome, <your name>.” Click it to go directly to your Photoshop.com account online. If you’re not signed on, you see “Sign In” instead.
Click this button or press Ctrl+Z to undo your last action.
Click here or press Ctrl+Y to redo your last action.
Click here to go to the Elements Organizer.
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