army surplus boots and Doc Martens— gain f urther pow er through a shoelace color code

w hose meanings depend on w ho adopts it.

The zoot (or zuit) suit of the late 1930s and 1940s w as an exaggerated garment that became

an expression of rebellion and self -determination. Zoot suits w ere luxury items that allow ed

marginalized groups— Mexican-, Af rican-, Filipino-, and Italian-American youth— to de ne

themselves. Central to the look are the tramas, high-w aisted, pegged trousers w ith a cuf f , and

the carlango, a long coat w ith w ide lapels and broad padded shoulders. Completing the style

as the caf tan; the dashiki, a brightly printed and/or embroidered top; and the agbada or grand

broidered George f abric, bazin or Guinea brocade, and w ax prints in colorf ul dynamic patterns.

lif e, and much of it has made its w ay into mainstream w ardrobes. Decorative piping, f ringe,

leather, embroidery, and even rhinestones push the look into the arena of country w estern

f ashion.

Renaissance, and medieval images. Androgynous and mystical styles are also popular.

In the 1950s a group of w orking class youth, of ten associated w ith jobs at gas stations and

garages, w ere dubbed greasers because of their slicked-back hairstyles. Cuf f ed jeans and

baggy cotton tw ill pants w orn w ith chain w allets are the norm f or the look. Tops vary f rom clas-

sic T-shirts in black or w hite w ith rolled-up sleeves and A-shirts (athletic shirts) to more f ash-

ionable Italian knit shirts, Sir Guy shirts, and Daddy-O bow ling shirts. Outerw ear includes w ork

jackets, dark trench coats, denim jackets, and leather motorcycle jackets. Harness, engineer,

early 1970s. The aesthetic w as also a collage of many dif f erent elements that speak to nature

and self -expression: hemp, cheesecloth, patchw ork, tie dye, love beads,  ow ers, crochet,

macramé, knits, headbands, long hair, bell-bottoms, granny glasses, bare f eet, and sandals.

The essence of the hippie w as reincarnated f or the new millennium as bo-ho chic. Beads,

or opaque tights. Platf orm shoes give the look a decidedly contemporary edge. Teddy bears

and dolls are carried as accessories to achieve the little girl look.

The mod 1960s style is marked by an obsession w ith f ashion and an ultra-cool aesthetic.

Boutiques on Carnaby Street and Kings Road in London w ere at the center of a youth-targeted

market. The androgynous look f or w omen comprises short haircuts, trousers, men’s shirting,

 at shoes, and very little makeup. Ever shorter miniskirts of f er an alternative to the man-

tailored f ashions.