Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:126
116-129_30034.indd 126 2/27/13 4:41 PM
12 6 THE FASHION DESIGN REFERENCE + SPECIFICATION BOOK
(Text)
PRINTING
The printing process uses pigments and dyes to form patterns on fabric. With the exception
of roller printing, these techniques can be employed on a small scale for cottage industries
or in mass production with machines. Hand-painted fabrics aside, a printed fabric is designed
using a motif as a structured repeat. The repeat is a nite block of a pattern that is duplicated
and distributed over a surface to create the allover print. Designing prints with repeats can
be compared to brickwork: Each brick is laid next the previous one, so that the end of one
connects with the beginning of the next. The next level of repeats can line up with the lower
one or it can shift over to randomize the pattern. In textile printing, this design technique is
called a drop-repeat or a brick repeat and it can be applied both horizontally and vertically. It is
important for the design on each panel or section to interlock with the next one, to create the
illusion of a seamless pattern.
Common Printing Methods
Hand Block Printing: Blocks of wood are etched with a pattern that is designed to interlock.
The block is dipped in the desired color and applied directly to the fabric. The next impression
will line up with the last one to achieve the effect that the pattern is continuous. To create
more complex designs, the process can be repeated with different colors and block patterns
that overlap and interlock with the previous pattern.
Roller Printing: Fabric is passed through engraved pressure cylinders that have been inked.
Contemporary machines are synchronized to be able to produce detailed prints with multiple
colors. Also called cylinder and machine printing.
Screen Printing: An ink-blocking emulsion is applied to a framed, nely woven mesh in the
desired pattern. A squeegee or roller pushes pigment through the unblocked areas, effectively
transferring a clear pattern onto the fabric. As with hand blocking, the process can be repeat-
ed with new overlapping and interlocking patterns in other colors to create more complexity.
Heat Transfer: Heat and pressure are used to transfer ink on carrier paper onto fabric. In some
instances the ink permeates the fabric, while in others the design adheres to the surface.
Computer printers and copiers can now print onto carrier paper for iron-on transfers.
Stencil: Cutouts provide the boundaries for painting repeats of a pattern. New stencil patterns
and more colors can be overlaid on the rst pattern.
Digital Textile Printing: Modi ed ink-jet technology is used for printing colorants onto fabric—
either printing smaller designs onto garments DTG, (direct to garment) or for printing larger
designs onto large-format rolls of fabric.
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Photograph by Christelle/Fotolia.
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Job:02-30034 Title:RP-Fashion Design Ref and Spec Book
#175 Dtp:225 Page:126
116-129_30034.indd 126 2/27/13 4:40 PM