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14 8 THE FASHION DESIGN REFERENCE + SPECIFICATION BOOK
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Chapter 14: Rendering
Anyone can draw. If one can render a conclusion, one can render a drawing.
Drawing can be broken down into choices about the assembly of straight lines,
curved lines, and the shapes they can create when shortened, extended, or
connected. Fashion designers have the advantage that they work with pat-
terns and are familiar with fabric and how it folds and drapes on the body. With
this experience, to produce a good croquis, or sketch, is a matter of develop-
ing hand-to-eye coordinationwhich simply takes practice. A recommended
method for such training is to use tracing paper for corrections. Being able to
see the mistake under a correction allows the brain to process important infor-
mation. Erasers eliminate this opportunity. They also change the surface of the
paper, which can affect the rendering when using paint or markers afterward.
Some designers have a natural af nity for rendering; others will  nd that their
skills are stronger in another part of the design process. Regardless, when a
fashion drawing is simpli ed to a kind of schematic, rendering becomes less
intimidating. The point is less to draw a pretty picture than to communicate an
idea clearly.
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES
Media
All designers have their preferred media, but any combination of watercolor, marker, or pencil
offers them many ways to express their ideas on paper. Watercolors and gouache are a great
choice for laying down base colors that can be built on; they also offer an infinite amount of
color-mixing formulas. Markers fall into two categories: Color markers will provide the trans-
parent effect of watercolor, keeping in mind that designers must purchase a marker for every
shade of color they will need. Fine-line markers have an inklike quality that can be useful for
making lines pop. Both brushes and markers come in a variety of sizes and shapes that run
the gamut from wide, chunky chiseled tips to fine needlelike microtips.
Gel-tip pens can add greater dimension to the finishing process, especially when rendering
metallic details. Translucent metallic paints will often require mixing with a base color to give
the color depth. Gold metallic paint out of the tube can fall a little flat because it is being mut-
ed by a white background. Laying down a wash of bright yellow or mustard will each create very
distinct types of gold. Use white pencil, gel pen, chalk, and china markers to add highlighting.
Photographs by Tracy Aiguier.
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Photographs by Tracy Aiguier.
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Quality of Line
Any combination of tip shapes and sizes will allow the designer to put down both big washes
of color and the  nest detail in one sketch. The amount pressure with which the drawing
instrument is applied will also affect the weight of the line on the page. The movement and
release of each stroke creates a sense of energy and movement when it is executed with
con dence. Practice and close attention to the intention behind each movement helps not
only to create a sense of effortlessness, but also to develop the designer’s unique personal
rendering style. A considerable contrast between thick and thin lines de nes the designer’s
style and affords a range of expression.
Light and Dark
Lighter colors are often easier to manage when rendering because they offer some latitude
when it comes to adding color, texture, or detail to make the color rich and realistic. A sketch
that is meant to represent a white garment might not require an application of white but
simply be about rendering  lmy gray shadows, using additional shades of gray for details. Or
a designer might choose to use color paper as a contrasting background for a garment that
is actually painted white. Darker colors are less forgiving and require a different kind of ap-
proach. If a designer applies a deep black pigment, shadows are absorbed by the dark color
and accents must indicate where light is being re ected. In this case, using grays or white
would help to create detail.
Shadow Mapping
Whether or not drawing from life, they must draft a map of shadows for their sketch. They will
need to  gure out how shadows will fall on the body, the face, and the garments. Selecting a
position for the light source will make it easier to be consistent with the placement of shad-
ows. The transparency of media such as watercolor and marker is helpful, because the illusion
of shadows can be created by applying an additional layer rather than mixing a darker color as
would be required were an opaque pigment being used.
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RENDERING THE BODY
The body of a fashion gure is usually elongated to imply grace and movement as well as to
provide a greater surface area for details. The average human body is approximately seven
to eight heads long. For the fashion  gure, the widely used nine-head drawing is a good place
to start when it comes to  guring out how to distribute the space from head to toe. Lengthen-
ing the hip-to-knee and knee-to-ankle ratio will create that long-legged model look, without
distorting the torso’s proportions.
Average body proportion versus fashion aesthetic
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COMPARATIVE PROPORTIONS
Heads
Average Fashion
1
Top of head to chin Top of head to chin
2
Chin to apex of bust Chin to apex of bust
3
Apex of bust to true waist Apex of bust to true waist
4
True waist to hip joint True waist to hip joint
5
Hip joint to mid thigh Hip joint to knee
6
Mid thigh to mid calf
7
Mid calf to ankle Knee to ankle
8
Ankle to toe
9
Ankle to toe
Leonardo da Vinci, ideal proportions of the
human  gure, 1492
The Bridgeman Art Library/Getty Images.
Some designers take artistic license and render sketches that are even more exaggerated in
the name of style. So long as some key points line up this can still give the illusion of being
in proportion. The elbow corresponds to the true waistline (at the navel), for instance, and the
wrist lines up with the hips. Of course, every designer’s preferred aesthetic has a correspond-
ing body. Some designers might lean toward a narrow boyish figure while others prefer a fuller
hourglass shape. Choosing between a higher or lower waistline and pairing it with a fuller bust
or hip will determine whether the figure has more of an apple or pear shape. Breaking this
down into a formula allows designers to make simple alterations to their croquis, customizing
it for the demands of the design. It also makes it easier for designers’ target customers to
imagine themselves in the garments. In any case, when designing a collection it is recom-
mended to commit to one body type to communicate that group of clothing as a standard so
that the relative difference between garments is clear.
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