Before you spend any money at the shop, try the quick fixes in this chapter. You might get lucky. If you're not so lucky, flip back to Chapter 19 for some more labor-intensive exploratory surgeries.
Sure, it sounds silly. But industry experts get paid big bucks to say that unplugged equipment is the leading cause of "electrical component malfunction." Check your power cord in two places: It can creep not only out of the wall outlet but also out of the back of your computer or whatever you've plugged into one of your computer's ports.
If you use a uninterrupted power supply or a surge protector, check three places: Check the back of your computer, check that your computer's power cord is plugged firmly into the UPS or surge protector, and check that the UPS or surge protector is plugged into the wall outlet.
Sometimes a yawning leg stretch can inadvertently loosen the cord from the wall. Rearranging a computer on the desk almost always loosens cables that aren't pushed tightly into the back of the computer.
And, uh, the machine is turned on, isn't it? (That's the leading cause of printer malfunction, by the way.) Some surge protectors have an on/off switch, so make sure the switch is in the on position.
Before going any further, try closing the troublesome program and restarting it. Doesn't cure the problem? Then log off from Windows, and log on again.
If that doesn't fix it, shut down Windows and your computer, and then turn it back on after about 30 seconds.
Sometimes the computer just gets confused for no apparent reason. If your computer drifts off into oblivion with no return in sight, try tapping the Spacebar a few times. Try pressing Esc or holding down Ctrl while pressing Esc. One of my laptops woke up only when I prodded an arrow key.
Still no return? Then it's time to get ugly. The next few steps may cause you to lose any unsaved work. Sorry!
Press the Ctrl, Alt, and Del keys simultaneously. Sometimes that's enough to wake up Windows and fetch a menu where you can choose Start Task Manager. When Task Manager appears, click its Applications tab and scan its Status column for any program listed as Not Responding. Find one? Right-click the culprit's name in Task Manager and snuff out the troublemaking program with a click of the End Task button.
If the computer still acts like an ice cube, head for the next level of attention grabbing: Press your computer's reset button. No reset button, or no results? Move to the next step.
If the computer's still counting marbles on some virtual playground, turn off the computer, hold down its power button for 10-15 seconds to force a shutdown, unplug the darn thing, or in the case of some laptops, remove its battery. (Windows often makes you hold the power button down for ten seconds or so.) Then wait 30 seconds after it's been turned off, giving it a chance to really settle down. Finally, turn the computer back on and see whether it returns in a better mood.
You'd be surprised how much good a little 30-second vacation can accomplish.
When you suspect some part is involved — not always an easy call with Windows — your best chance at fixing the problem comes by finding a better driver. Drivers serve as translators between Windows' language and the language spoken by a manufacturer's particular part.
The better the translator, the smoother the conversations. Installing an updated video driver, for example, can fix irregularities in the display you'd been blaming on your monitor. An updated sound driver might rid your music files of odd noises or garbles.
I describe how to track down and install drivers in Chapter 17.
When your computer gives you an annoying error message, write it down on a scrap of paper. Then type that error message into the search box on Google (www.google.com). Be sure to type in the exact error message, and put it in quotes.
Thousands of frustrated people have seen that same error message. Dozens of them have already posted that error message on the Internet, begging for answers. And if you're lucky, it won't take long before you find the few people who've posted solutions that could be as simple as clicking the right check box.
I describe how to search with Google in Chapter 21.
Malware programs — programs designed to do harmful things — try to sneak into Windows as you visit Web sites. Some malware hops onto your computer surreptitiously, others piggyback on programs offered by sneaky Web sites.
One type of malware, spyware, tracks your Web activity, sending your browsing patterns back to the spyware program's publisher. The publisher then sneaks targeted advertisements onto your computer's screen, either through pop-up ads, banners, or changing your browser's Home page.
Most spyware programs freely admit to being spies — usually on the 43rd page of the 44-page agreement you're supposed to read before installing the supposedly helpful program.
The biggest problem with malware-like spyware comes when you try to pry off the programs: They rarely include a working uninstall program. That's where malware removal programs come in.
The free Microsoft Security Essentials program prevents some malware from installing itself. The program also removes any malware it finds living inside your computer. I describe how to download and install Microsoft Security Essentials in Chapter 19.
This isn't really a quick-fix tip, but it's certainly a way to avoid having to do a lot of fixing when a virus infects your computer. Most viruses can be avoided by following this simple rule: Don't open any e-mailed file unless you're expecting to receive it.
That rule works because most viruses spread by e-mailing a copy of themselves to everybody in the address book of an infected computer. That means most viruses arrive in e-mail sent by your friends or coworkers.
Before opening any suspicious file, e-mail the sender and ask them if they meant to send you the file. That little bit of effort not only keeps your computer safer, it keeps you from having to clean up problems left over by rogue programs.
Just like Windows XP and Windows Vista, Windows 7 includes a wonderful tool for setting things right again. Called System Restore, this tool remembers the good times — when your computer worked fine and all the parts got along.
When your computer becomes a problem child, System Restore may be able to send it back to that time when everything worked fine. I explain this miracle worker in Chapter 1.
Nobody likes to work when it's too hot, and your computer is no exception. Your computer normally works naked, but after a few months it wears a thick coat of dust.
Your first step is to look at the fan's round grill on the back of the computer. See all the dust specks clinging to the grill, swapping barbecue stories? Remove them with a rag or vacuum cleaner, being careful to keep the worst grunge from falling back inside your computer.
Second, check the vents on the front and sides of your computer case or laptop. Although the fan in the power supply is creating the airflow, the air is actually being sucked in these little holes and crevices. If these vents are clogged with crud, very little air moves across the components to cool them.
Don't just blow on the dust, either. The microscopic flecks of spittle in your breath can cause problems with the computer's moisture-sensitive internal components.
If you have cats, dogs, or your computer hasn't been moved for years, buy a cheap can of compressed air from a local computer store, remove your computer's case, and blast the dust off its innards. Dose it with an air blast every few months, paying special attention to crevices and grills. (Unplug it and carry it outside first. Angry dislodged dust particles float everywhere.)
Note
The more parts and peripherals you add to your computer, the hotter it runs. Be sure to keep the vents clean.
Tip
Don't tape cards or cheat sheets across the front of your computer's case. That can block your computer's air vents, which are often disguised as ridges across the front of the case. When air can't circulate inside your computer, your computer heats up in a hurry. Also, don't keep your computer pushed up directly against the wall. It needs some breathing room so that its fan can blow out all the hot air from inside the case.
When computers simply refuse to turn on and do anything, and you know that the power cord isn't loose, it's probably because the power supply died.
Power supplies almost always include a built-in fan, so if you don't hear a fan whirl when you turn on your computer, your power supply probably needs replacing.
Chapter 10 provides power-supply replacement instructions.
Windows comes with several programs designed to keep it running trouble-free. Every few months — and immediately if Windows starts giving you some vague, unidentifiable trouble — follow these steps to find and run some of the troubleshooters:
Open the Start menu and click Computer.
Windows lists your computer's disk drives and other storage areas.
Right-click on your hard drive's icon and choose Properties from the pop-up menu.
You want to right-click the Local Disk (C:) drive, as that's the drive where Windows sets up camp.
Click the Tools tab to get to the goodies.
The Tools tab reveals three buttons that either check the drive for errors, defragment the drive, or back up the drive.
Click the Check Now button, and then click the Start button.
When the Check Disk box appears, automate the disk-checking process by checking the two boxes, Automatically Fix File System Errors and Scan for and Attempt Recovery of Bad Sectors.
Since you're checking the drive Windows lives on, the program will ask to run the disk check the next time you restart your computer. (That gives the program access to areas it can't reach while Windows is running.)
Repeat the process on your other hard drive icons.
If your computer has other hard drives, repeat the process on them, as well. If your computer has a card reader, this trick also works to repair some memory cards, like the ones used in most digital cameras. (It also works on flash drives.) It won't work on CD or DVD drives, however.
Tip
To defragment your hard drive — a way to speed it up by reorganizing its information — repeat the first three steps above, but click the Defragment Now button in Step 4. (Windows 7 normally defragments your hard drive automatically in the background, but this trick lets you start it anytime you wish.)