In addition to the conventional battle over form and function, Ohlsonsmith are committed to the emotional impact of their practice. They pay particular attention to the ‘feel’ of their work and their ultimate goal is to produce a memorable experience. Based in Stockholm, the studio was founded in 2006 by Barbro Ohlson Smith. With expertise in print, motion and experience design, the studio’s strength lies in brand identity development. Ohlsonsmith understand the marketplace is fiercely competitive and believe innovative design is a vital means of building value, strength and, most importantly, distinction from the competition for their clients.
Having previously met the designer of van Deurs, Susanne Beskow, on several occasions, Ohlson Smith saw one of her early fashion presentations and was immediately drawn to the collection. However, there was a clear disparity between the luxurious quality of the garments and the brand’s mediocre visual communication. Convinced of its potential, and excited by the opportunity to work on a project that interested her personally, Ohlson Smith offered her services. The priority was to reflect the high quality of the garments across every level of the experience. Instead of design concepts, the first presentation to van Deurs was a moodboard of images, textiles and textures that defined the brand and clarified how it should be perceived. This visual gesture had an immediate, positive impact: Ohlsonsmith had clearly demonstrated their understanding of the van Deurs brand and earned the company’s trust.
Van Deurs is a relatively small label, a fact that affords Ohlsonsmith the opportunity to manage the entire brand. Ohlson Smith happily admits, “We seem to want to get involved everywhere. When we have the chance to influence the entire brand, we get great satisfaction from that. We have a very good understanding and respect for each other. Susanne has put a lot of trust in us.” The personal engagement with Beskow instils an emotional weight in the final product that is not possible with larger labels. This intimacy is reflected by the passion Ohlsonsmith bring to the project.
With an emphasis on the tactility of the fabric, the van Deurs signature is pleated garments, and this has been adopted as the central element of the branding. “When you see the pleated material a lot of thoughts come at you straightaway. The swing tag was one of the ideas we had quite early.” A moment of inspiration arrived with the delivery of a parcel of fabric neatly wrapped in pleated paper. This was immediately adapted as a package for a press kit. In a continual extension on the theme, simulated creases and angular lines of type were used in the Autumn/Winter 2007/08 lookbook to reinforce this tactile quality. Ohlsonsmith have cleverly realigned the focus of the brand from the form of the logo to the actual touch and feel of the product.
An open dialogue between Ohlsonsmith and van Deurs is vital to stimulate new ideas. Despite a close professional bond, there is a separation of responsibilities rather than full collaboration. Ohlsonsmith are decisive about how the brand should be presented. “We provide an extra dimension to extend the core message of van Deurs and allow Susanne to focus on what she does best,” says Ohlson Smith. In a reversal of conventional roles, Ohlsonsmith take the initiative, making creative proposals to Beskow. More than brand designers, they are brand guardians, and even advise on marketing and business issues to consolidate and focus the message.
In an industry dominated by boutique labels, Ohlsonsmith provide an invaluable service by establishing an identifiable brand image. “Fashion offers the possibility to create new expressions without any connection to the real world. Because of this, the possibilities are endless and the artistic freedom vast.” In a true balance between the heart and mind, Ohlsonsmith have been able to give clarity of form to the key values of van Deurs and drive the brand forward with confidence.
The simplicity of the pleated swing tag, designed by Petter Hollström and Barbro Ohlson Smith, is central to the brand communication of van Deurs . “A proud logotype for a proud brand.”
The Autumn/Winter 2007/08 lookbook, with photography by Knotan, emphasized black as the central theme from the collection. Printed on uncoated paper it appears to absorb the images directly into the texture of the paper. Postcards are also used as seasonal promotional material.
Seizing the raw packaging material of the pleated fabric from the van Deurs studio, Ohlsonsmith developed an envelope for an early press release. Here the tactility of pleated material is immediately apparent.