PAUL BOUDENS for HAIDER ACKERMANN
Ever since the Antwerp Six burst on to the international fashion scene in 1988, the modest and relatively small Belgian city has played a pivotal role in contemporary fashion; competition is strong within its creative industry and fashion remains the undisputed champion. While Paul Boudens originally set out to be a fashion designer, he now maintains a pragmatic relationship with the industry, content to exist in a supporting role. “I love working ‘in the shadow’ of a fashion designer, helping to expand their vision, and at the same time doing my own thing for them.” With his fervent, emotionally charged work, Boudens has stepped out of the shadow and established his own global reputation.
The creative demands and impossible deadlines of fashion are a perfect match for Boudens. “I love the sheer speed of things. You have to work fast, assignment after assignment; there’s a lot of variety with the seasons changing.” He operates with a constant sense of urgency, adamant that dwelling too long on a project can breed indecision and boredom.
Contrary to the perpetual reinvention of fashion, Boudens has no interest in trends, preferring the greater challenge of timelessness. He is spontaneously creative, and relies on instinct to guide the direction of each project. “I have no theories about my work. I can only say how I work, and how I came to do what I do. I absolutely hate ‘concepts’ so I never over analyze things. It’s fashion, not science.”
Boudens is creatively self-reliant, a bona fide one-man operation – a fact that is disguised by his prolific output. While the burden of solitude can creep in, he is so accustomed to working alone that he no longer has the desire to be part of a studio environment. He admits this is partly to ensure complete control over the end result, but Boudens’ talent lies in the sense of intimacy in his work. His personal touch is as distinctive as his fingerprint. Such finesse cannot be entrusted or taught to another individual. Anyone who employs Paul Boudens will get Paul Boudens.
Although his isolation in his studio inhibits conventional collaboration, Boudens values close professional relationships with his clients. Based on a friendship stretching back to the late 1990s, as art director of the biannual fashion title A Magazine, Boudens seized the opportunity to install himself as the guest curator for the third issue in 2005. Although both men were somewhat apprehensive initially, their professional relationship was highly successful and they naturally moved on to the Haider Ackermann brand, which is an ongoing project. Although Ackermann is now based in Paris, he and Boudens speak directly about their projects.
Invitations to the Haider Ackermann collections maintain consistency through their uniform dimensions and thickness and weight, while seasonal variations are shown through variable materials, processes and typography. Ackermann’s signature muted tones and seductive textures are skilfully reflected each season by Boudens. He has refined the art of translating the vision of the fashion designer while leaving room for his own personal touch. “I think I’m quite good at ‘reading’ their universe, and schizophrenic enough to adapt myself to their world. In the end you can see that I made it, so it’s a perfect marriage.”
Honest about the financial limitations of the fashion industry and the ominous trend for the budget to be of primary importance, Boudens is happy to exercise a ‘less is more’ aesthetic. Any lack of funds is met with inventive dedication to extract the most out of the project. His creative investment is 100 per cent. He puts a great deal of personal energy into every project, and admits that he is despondent when he sees his invitations carelessly discarded at the entrance to a catwalk show. Yet he has a strong sense of humour and self-awareness, supported by a quick wit that turns the negative into the positive. This optimism is best explained by his belief that “The next job is always the nicest”.
Using a standard envelope format and maintaining a consistent design approach, Boudens infuses every invitation with the personality of the collection, employing a variety of embossing and foils on very thick board.