Chapter 10      image

Seeing what's wrong is easy — the hard part is the fix

The AAD is based in a beautiful little suburb of Hobart called Kingston. It's far enough out of town to have the luxury of being able to spread itself out, but it's close to the docks and waterside. The AAD facility would be my new ‘office’ for the next three months. I would commute daily on a minibus from our serviced apartments in Hobart. I was looking forward to the prospect of driving along the beautiful Derwent River, watching the yachts and keeping an eye out for the icebreaker that would eventually take us on our adventure.

Expedition leader school

The night before the first day of training we all arrived at our apartments and were milling about in the outdoor barbecue area. Not everyone was required for the full three months and the only people so far in Hobart were the other Station Leaders and their deputies.

It was an eye-opening dinner. Here was I, a girl from Dandenong, sitting down to a meal with seasoned Antarctic leaders. We were joined by Ross, who was to be one of my Deputy Station Leaders over summer. He had returned from Antarctica earlier this year so I felt comfortable that my deputy would be well versed in the Antarctic ways.

I had to share my suite with another woman, Eve, the doctor headed to Casey Station. I hadn't shared a home for over 10 years, but it wasn't the last time I would feel a bit awkward in those hectic few months.

Wednesday 28th July

First night in Hobart!

Am staying at Quest Trinity House and sharing with Eve, the doctor for Casey Station. Had a good dinner with Jeremy, Graham, Ross, Graeme and Micky. Feeling pretty good, although STUNNED to hear they haven't had another woman leader at Davis Station since Diana Patterson back in the ’80s. Makes me wonder why …

I think Ross will be a real asset as my deputy. He has some good strong views on the role of both the Station Leader and the Deputy Station Leader. I think he will let me know what the troops are thinking and feeling.

I think I will learn more from Jeremy than anyone else, though. If people are asking to be on his station then I think that's a good sign. I like him.

Time for my first sleep on this big adventure. Tomorrow it's our first day at the division and I can't wait to meet everyone and settle in. Let the games begin!

I was highly impressed by the AAD on my first day. I had a laptop that was configured and worked properly, I had an office with my name on it, and even my phone extension was already set up. The key people responsible for our training met the bus at the front door and we spent the morning being inducted into the division.

For the first week or so it was just the expedition leaders and doctors at the training sessions. We were taught specific things relevant only to Station Leaders, such as our role as coroner and our legal obligations under the Crimes Act! We were also told, in no uncertain terms, that the sole purpose of Australia's funding and running these expeditions was to further our scientific endeavours.

Monday 2nd August

Wow!! Today we started the briefings in earnest and I have to get my head around some amazing things. I was quite comfortable with the legal stuff. The powers of arrest, search and seizure, cautions and rules of evidence are all things I'm familiar with as a park ranger. But the space and atmospheric science is a whole new ball game. It's unbelievably complicated — to me anyway. But I'm quite interested in learning more about it. I will make a great ‘phone a friend’ on Who Wants to be a Millionaire when this is all over. Although I DID impress the scientists with my knowledge of BODMAS!! And these scientists aren't easy to impress.

Yes, I'm confident I'll enjoy learning about the sciences. I need to know enough about the project, and about the instruments, to be able to manage issues. Such as … how to deal with light interference coming from the SMQ (sleeping and medical quarters) and LQ (living quarters).

I'm not stressed about not knowing the intricate details about each one — my job is to get the best out of the people, not second-guess their work.

I'm learning a lot about climate change science, particularly the work we do with ice cores. Antarctica is an important place to study climate for three reasons:

  1. Because the snow and ice never melt in some places, Antarctica contains a very long term and accurate record of atmospheric makeup and conditions going back thousands of years.
  2. Antarctica is a predictor of broader changes in the climate and weather.
  3. Weather patterns in Antarctica determine the movement and flow of oceans and currents in the Southern Ocean. This has a profound effect on large-scale global weather patterns.

Geologists study meteorites down there too. I racked my brain wondering why Antarctica attracted more meteorites than other places — was it the magnetic South Pole pulling them in? Was it the size of Antarctica and the fact it was an easy target? Was it the freezing temperatures that somehow left the meteorites in an unbroken state?

Nope, it's none of the above. It's because snow is white and meteorites are black. So they are easy to see. Truly.

Who'd have known!

How Antarctic expeditions work

Nearly all the science takes place outdoors and there is only a threemonth window when that is possible: summer.

We were to arrive at the beginning of summer and immediately commence our scientific work. The station would be full to overflowing, and managing the demand for resources such as helicopters, planes, quad bikes and lab space was going to be a challenge. Summer would also be the time for any major infrastructure work that may be needed, such as putting up new buildings and installing new scientific or communications gear such as antennas.

At the end of summer, the ship would return with new supplies and take the 90 or so ‘summerers’ back to Australia before the ocean froze around the station. Once the ship disappeared over the horizon, that was it. No way in. No way out.

With the exception of two scientists and two Bureau of Meteorology staff, the 18 who stayed behind simply did so to ‘keep the lights on’ until next summer. The ‘winterers’, as they are known, are mostly not scientists but ordinary people with simpler, everyday skills: diesel mechanics to maintain the fresh water production system; carpenters to refurbish worn-out equipment and furniture; plumbers to ensure that, well, everything flushed.

In addition to the trades people, the winterers would include a doctor, a chef and someone to lead, support and manage the team. Me.

It appeared to be quite a strange existence. The picture of summer the AAD built in my mind was one of mayhem, furious activity and the huge challenge of fitting everything into these three short months. The picture of winter was of nine long months of nothing much at all. It occurred to me that the seasons would have opposing challenges: managing frenetic activity in summer and managing boredom in winter. I would need to delve into and develop my kitbag of ideas and techniques to lead effectively through both seasons.

Meeting my fellow expeditioners

My fellow winterers started to arrive and by week four I had met all 17. I was happy to finally meet the people I was going to live with for the next year. People find it amazing that as expedition leader I had absolutely no input in the selection of my expedition team, but upon meeting them I felt they were a great bunch. They were as interesting as you would expect from such diverse professions. I liked my new team and we quickly started to bond.

Wednesday 4th August

Met my first two expeditioners today. I'm still getting used to the ‘power’ of the Station Leader position. EVERYTHING must come through the Station Leader — just like the Chief Ranger — but here it appears that everything actually does!! Although, that may change …

Some 99 per cent of our training concerned the mechanics of running the station and living in Antarctica. Sessions were organised for quad-bike lessons, first aid, crane operation and the like. Looking through my training schedule one afternoon I was surprised to see that Station Leaders were not given any Antarctic-specific leadership or management training. I thought that surely such a harsh and uncompromising environment would create unique management scenarios that aren't found in the average workplace. Obviously the AAD didn't agree. Towards the end of my time in Antarctica I would reflect on the leadership and management challenges and agree. They are no different in principle, but they are vastly different in application!

Not ‘one of the boys’

One area of leadership, however, did receive reasonably constant attention: the behaviour of the leader him- or herself. Time and time again when the Station Leaders were gathered, someone from the AAD would exhort us to ‘act like leaders’. What did this mean? What was he saying? I reflected on this one night.

Thursday 5th August

The unique nature of managing in this environment is starting to sink in. The Executive is very conscious of a Station Leader becoming ‘one of the boys’ rather than maintaining distance as a leader. I can understand how this would happen and how it could be an ‘easier’ way to operate.

But as Richard pointed out — the word quickly gets out. Station Leaders become a light touch and then find it very difficult to manage performance and get the most out of their people.

If I was to act as ‘one of the blokes’ and there was someone on station who had it in for me they could easily make sure head office found out. I think I will need to be very conscious of how much I mingle with and befriend my people. Or is Richard just trying to scare us into action?? I don't think so. There must be some history we're not being told.

Random Q: Why does the AAD need to put a letter F next to all the women's names??? Seriously, if they can't work out Sara, Kirsten and Rachael are females then I'm in more trouble than I thought.

We were deep into training now with an unbelievably long list of complex things to remember. We learned about the recent history of Antarctica since man started to suspect there was a continent at the South Pole. We learned about the Antarctic Treaty, which helps protect the continent from exploitation or damage. Each day was full of interesting lectures and presentations, and we had the opportunity to quiz our teachers along the way.

When a culture is broken

A couple of weeks into training I started to suspect there were some significant issues with the culture of the AAD and its expeditions. A number of clear ‘us and them’ distinctions emerged. One was between the AAD and the expeditioners on station. I likened it to what we sometimes saw in Parks Victoria — the rangers are on the tools, they do the work, they're important. But head office made the decisions and had the money and decision-making power. I've seen it in organisations where the ‘scientists’ fight the ‘administrators’. It appeared to be happening here.

Friday 6th August

Another interesting day getting my head around the dominant culture of the AAD. I really need a better understanding of the corporate strategy. In the past Station Leaders have been seen very much as just operations, with little to no involvement with the various branches of the division, and scant knowledge of the inner workings of the AAD. This has built an ‘us and them’ culture.

I want to build a culture of ‘us being a critical part of the division’ rather simply being an isolated outpost. To do this I'm going to need far better understanding and insight into what it is we (the division) do.

I think this is going to be tougher than it sounds. I will need to show my desire to exercise and improve my corporate knowledge but not at the expense of learning the critical operations skills that will be crucial to the smooth running of the station and the safety of my teams.

The need for cultural change seems obvious to me and there are some simple ways to achieve it. Things like fixing the clocks in the operations room, for example. The clocks are a great idea — everyone in ops sees the local time at each station. But none of them has the right time, and two of them don't even work! This sends a really bad message IMO.

P.S. Mel told me a great story last night about the Field Training Officers assessment centre. They weren't allowed outside for two days and had to eat standing up!

Another cultural rift was forming between the scientists and the rest — these were the people I was taking to Antarctica.

Saturday 7th August

More us and them — this time on station.

The scientists have been great with the briefings. I can see them really trying hard to make their projects understandable for us laypeople. However, I'm getting a real sense that there is a big cultural gap between the scientists and those who run the station. We keep being told that we are only in Antarctica for the science and therefore science is the priority. I believe and agree with this. But it also seems to have created a distinction between science and operations. Maybe aloofness. I can't afford to have this on my expedition. We must all work side by side and respect the important role each of us fills.

Questions of culture were beginning to dominate my thoughts in these early days of training. It was apparent to me that the expedition team must consider itself part of the AAD, a remote but integrated piece of the larger puzzle. The days of glory, fame and life-risking expeditions were over. Expeditioners were no longer explorers charting the unmapped continent at great danger to life and limb. As much as we were going to an extreme environment, I was becoming strong in my opinion that this was just another workplace and we should operate as such.

Monday 9th August

I'm a bit annoyed that some of the scientists have been put up in a separate hotel several kilometres away and they're not going to make it to our first expedition meeting. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt for now, but it's a potential sign of cultural segregation. This may turn into the first test of Station Leader clout.

At dinner one night I raised my concerns around culture with my fellow Station Leaders. I explained my philosophy of an Antarctic station being similar to a mine site or a branch office in a far-flung location. I was met with stony silence and a few grunts; my dinner partners were unwilling to talk ‘culture’. After dinner one of the Station Leaders bailed me up in the lift.

‘The culture's not broken. I've been down twice, once as Station Leader, and it's just fine. We need to be separate, boys will be boys and you can't stop that.’

‘Well that might have been true 50 years ago,’ I replied, ‘but now you must comply with EEO, OH&S and all the other legislative requirements for a workplace.’

‘Says who? What happens on station stays on station.’

I was nonplussed by this braggadocio and swagger. But it made me even more determined to run a professional, respectful and successful expedition. I would do it my way, whether or not the other Station Leaders agreed. I believed strongly that a ‘professional workplace’ should be the new model for Antarctic life. I also wondered why he brought up ‘boys will be boys’. This wasn't an end-of-year footy trip. If my expeditioners thought they were in for a year of drinking, carousing and taking it easy, they were going to get a rude shock!

Mutual respect — the foundation of our desired culture

I started to envision the culture for my expedition team and gave it a name — ‘OneDavis — OneAAD’. I wanted my expeditioners to feel and act as part of the broader division. I wanted us to be tuned in to the head office requirements for communication, news and updates, completion of tasks and, importantly, a safe and harmonious workplace. I also wanted my expeditioners to operate as one team. No more scientists versus tradies. No more most important to least important.

To succeed over summer and survive over winter, we would all need to have the utmost respect for each other and operate as a cohesive unit. To do this we would all need to know each other's business — how each individual contributed and what made them special. I was fairly blunt about it. I didn't expect them all to love each other; that's impractical. You can't take 18 strangers from all backgrounds and walks of life, throw them together in total darkness, around-the-clock, and expect they'll all love each other. It's Antarctica, not a John Lennon song. But I did expect we would all respect one another. We would respect personal space, time, experiences, opinions, skills … everything.

I facilitated three ‘culture change’ workshops with my expedition. The first was to agree on the set of values that our expedition would count the most important and would live by. We used the second and third workshops to unpack the values and explore what they looked like in practice, using scenarios that were likely to occur in Antarctica. I made sure that each scenario contained a real tension between the values. It was important that the values weren't just a laminated wish list on the kitchen wall — my people needed to understand the trade-offs required. In one of the scenarios we described a situation where the person had to choose between being trustworthy and loyal to a fellow expeditioner and raising a safety issue with the Station Leader. It was a heated workshop! As much as you can't wave a magic wand and change people's values, you can work on behaviours and create a set of norms, of rights and wrongs. I didn't win 100 per cent agreement on all of the scenarios, but it was useful for everyone to see the challenges of the culture we wanted graphically played out in front of them.

What I learned

  • Positive change comes from the ground up. A great culture takes time, commitment, energy, effort and constant vigilance. Leaders must model the behaviour they want all day, every day. However, it's the people who will make the change, so there must be input and involvement from them, not just a top-down directive. Staff must own the norms and behaviours, and for this to work they need to be involved in developing and setting expectations.
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