Table of Contents
Chapter 1. Wave Mechanics: Basic Concepts
1.2. Introduction to Wave Mechanics
1.3. Stokes' Theory to the First Order
1.4. Stokes' Theory to the Second Order
1.6. Preliminary Remarks on Three-Dimensional Waves
1.9. Energy Flux and Wave Energy
Chapter 2. Wave Transformation near Coasts
2.1. Refraction with Straight Contour Lines
2.2. Refraction with Arbitrary Contour Lines
2.3. Wave–Current Interaction in Some Straits
Chapter 3. Random Wind-Generated Waves: Basic Concepts
3.1. Sea State, Significant Wave Height, Spectrum, Autocovariance
3.2. The Concept of “Very Narrow Spectrum”
3.3. Bandwidth and Narrow-Bandedness Parameters
3.4. Characteristic Spectra of Wind Seas
3.5. How to Obtain the Frequency Spectrum
3.7. Small-Scale Field Experiments
Chapter 4. Wave Statistics in Sea States
4.1. Surface Elevation as a Stationary Gaussian Process
4.2. Joint Probability of Surface Elevation
4.4. Corollaries of Rice's Problem
4.5. Consequences of the QD Theory onto Wave Statistics
4.7. Maximum Expected Wave Height and Crest Height in a Sea State of Given Characteristics
4.8. FORTRAN Programs for the Maximum Expected Wave in a Sea State of Given Characteristics
5.1. Distribution of Hs for a Given Geographic Location
5.2. The “Equivalent Triangular Storm”
5.3. Return Period and Average Persistence
5.4. The Encounter Probability of a Sea Storm with Some Given Characteristics
5.5. The Design Sea State for Given Lifetime and Encounter Probability
5.6. Estimate of the Largest Wave Height in the Lifetime
Chapter 6. Space—Time Theory of Sea States
6.1. Wave Field in the Open Sea
6.2. Maximum Expected Wave Height at a Given Array of Points in the Design Sea State
6.3. Directional Spectrum: Definition and Characteristic Shape
6.4. Classic Approach: Obtaining the Directional Distribution
6.5. New Approach: Obtaining Individual Angles θi
6.6. Subroutines for Calculation of the Directional Spectrum with the New Method
6.7. Worked Example of Obtaining a Directional Spectrum
Chapter 7. Complements of Space—Time Theory of Sea States
7.1. Cross-covariances: Homogeneous Random Wave Field
7.2. Sea States Nonhomogeneous in Space
7.3. Cross-covariances: Nonhomogeneous Random Wave Fields
7.4. Maximum Expected Wave Height in a Nonhomogeneous Sea State
Chapter 8. The Theory of Quasi-Determinism
8.2. A Sufficient Condition for the Occurrence of a Wave of Given Very Large Height
8.3. A Necessary Condition for the Occurrence of a Wave of Given Very Large Height
8.4. The First Deterministic Wave Function in Space and Time
8.5. The Velocity Potential Associated with the First Deterministic Wave Function in Space and Time
8.6. The Second Deterministic Wave Function in Space and Time
8.7. Comment: A Deterministic Mechanics Is Born by the Theory of Probability
Chapter 9. Quasi-Determinism Theory: Mechanics of Wave Groups
9.1. What Does the Deterministic Wave Function Represent?
9.2. Particle Velocity and Acceleration in Wave Groups
9.4. Experimental Verification of the Quasi-Determinism Theory: Basic Concepts
9.5. Results of Small-Scale Field Experiments
Chapter 10. QD Theory: Mechanics of Wave Forces on Large Isolated Bodies
10.1. Further Proof that the QD Theory Holds for Arbitrary Configurations of the Solid Boundary
10.2. Deterministic Pressure Fluctuations on Solid Body
10.4. The Reason the Wave Force on the Solid Body is Greater than the Froude–Krylov Force
10.5. Comparing Wave Force on an Isolated Solid Body to the Froude–Krylov Force
10.6. A General Model for Calculating the Diffraction Coefficient of Wave Forces
Chapter 11. QD Theory: Mechanics of Reflected and Diffracted Wave Groups
11.2. In the Lee of a Breakwater
11.3. Experimental Verification
Chapter 12. Calculation of Wave Forces on Three-Dimensional Space Frames
12.1. Morison Equation and Drag and Inertia Coefficients
12.2. Field Tests of Morison Equation
Chapter 13. Calculation of Wave Forces on Gravity Platforms and Submerged Tunnels
13.1. Wave Forces on a Gravity Offshore Platform
13.2. Wave Forces on a Submerged Tunnel
Chapter 14. Loads of Sea Storms on Vertical Breakwaters
14.1. Overall Stability of an Upright Section
14.4. The Risk of Impulsive Breaking Wave Pressures
Chapter 15. Conversion of Wave Energy
15.1. An Overview of Work Done to Exploit Wave Energy Source
15.2. The Propagation Speed of Wave Energy
15.3. Interaction between Wave and U-OWC
Chapter 16. Design of a Wave Energy Converter
16.1. The Water and Air Flow Inside a U-OWC
16.2. Production of Electrical Energy from a Given Sea State