Index

Adams, Edward, 204

adulteration, 4, 59–63, 69, 81–82, 92–95, 180–181, 210–214, 250–252, 264–265

Akerlof, George, 97–98

Algeria: economies of scale in wine making in, 48–53

exports from, 41, 53, 61

and vines, area of, 57

wine making in, 49–53

and wine, price of, 279

and wine, production of, 8, 52–53, 267

wineries in, size of, 50, 52n76, 57, 278

Alicante bouschet, 49, 292

américainistes, 37–39. See also phylloxera

Amerine, Maynard, 14, 17

Anderson, Kym, 221

Anglo-French Treaty (1860), 87

Anglo-Portuguese Commercial Treaty Acts, 155, 169, 266

appellations, 108–110, 126–131, 145–152, 164–169, 187–188, 271

aramon, 49, 279, 292

Arata, Pedro, 246–247, 248, 250, 258

Argentina: living standards in, 240–241

and vines, area of, 253

wages in, 191, 240

and wine, consumption of, 240, 257

and wine, production of, 240, 244–245, 254

wine law in, 251

yields in, 245. See also Mendoza

Asturias, 258

Aube, 150–153

Augé-Laribé, Michel, 10–11, 12, 30, 54–56, 72, 145, 267

Australia: and brandy, 227–228

and dessert wines, 233–234

exports from, 231

living standards in, 241

population of, 241

and vines, area of, 223, 245

and wine, consumption of, 221, 230–231

and wine, production of, 223, 229, 245

wine making in, 224, 227–228

and yields, 245. See also New South Wales; South Australia; Victoria

Barossa Valley, 222, 225–226

Bartissol project, 74, 271

Béaur, Gérald, 16

beer, 100–101, 192, 217

Beeston, John, 222

Bengas, Tiburio, 243, 249, 252

Bennett, Norman, 156

Berget, Adrien, 72

Berry Brothers, 160, 184, 281–289

Big Bob Bottle, 162

Bioletti, Frederic, 204

Blanco, Ernesto, 243

Blandy Brothers, 234, 237

blending, of wines, 6–7, 81, 92–93, 109, 115–116, 159–160, 210–211, 215, 227, 254–255

Bordeaux: and abonnement, 120, 125

and adulteration, 126–129

and appellation, creation of, 130–131

and brands, 116

and classification, 1855, 118–119

and downy mildew, 122–124

and estate bottling, 119, 121–122

and grapes, quality of, 5, 122–124

and growers, number of, 109

and intercropping, 115

and land, prices of, 124

and Old Regime, privileges of, 23

and phylloxera, 120–121

and powdery mildew, 112

and prix-faiteurs, 9, 114

and vines, area of, 114, 119

and vineyards, size of, 114–115

and wine making, 19

and wine, exports of, 91, 112–114, 123–124, 126–128

and wine, marketing of, 116–119, 125–126

and wine, price of, 116–117, 280, 284

and wine, production of, 112, 117, 123, 125, 129. See also Britain

Boutelou, Esteban, 9

Bradford, Sara, 155

Brame, Paul, 50

brands, 23, 99–100, 108n3, 116, 118–120, 123–124, 139–141, 160–161, 183–184, 211–213, 215, 227, 235–238, 254–255, 265–266

Brennan, Thomas, 22, 26, 135–136

Briggs, Asa, 83n6, 87n33

Britain: beer consumption in, 84, 100–101

and economies of scale in marketing, 98–100, 234–238

and downy mildew, influence on quality, 96–97, 122–124

and food and beverages, imports of, 77–79

grocery trade in, 92

hotel trade in, 101–102, 140

and income elasticity of demand, 102–104

living standards in, 84, 240

and phylloxera, influence on supplies, 96–97

population of, 77, 240

and powdery mildew, influence on supplies, 96–97

retail merchants in, 92, 98–100, 139–140, 160–161, 169, 236–237

rural consumers in, 101

Select Committee on Import Duties on Wines, 81, 85, 182: and tariffs, 84, 87–89, 181–182

temperance movement in, 101

urbanization in, 77

wages in, 84

and wine, price of, 96–97

and wine, alcoholic strength of, 87–88, 89

and wine, consumption of, 4, 80–89, 103, 265

and wine, imports of, 77, 86, 90–94

British claret, 82, 127

Brousse Law, 61

Brussels Sugar Agreement, 69

Buenos Aires, 240, 246, 251, 253, 255, 258, 260

Burgoyne, Peter, 99, 229–230, 235–239, 269

Burgundy, 22–23, 26–27, 74, 279–280

Busby, James, 1, 28–29, 177, 221–222, 272

California: and adulteration, 210–211, 213

Anaheim, 197

and brandy, 211–213, 215

and dessert wines, 213, 215

and grapes, price of, 209

growers in, number of, 276–277

and import substitution, 205, 210

and labor, shortages of, 199–200

missions in, 195–196

and phylloxera, 195, 200

population of, 195

and vines, area of, 201, 245, 276–277

vineyards in, size of, 201–202, 276–277

and wine, consumption of, 211, 217

and wine, overproduction of, 203, 205–207

and wine, price of, 209–210

and wine, production of, 196, 245, wineries in, size of, 204

and yields, 245. See also California Wine Association (CWA); California Wine-Makers Corporation (CWMC); Napa; Prohibition; Sonoma; United States of America

California Wine Association (CWA), 207–209, 211–219

California Wine-Makers Corporation (CWMC), 207–208

capital requirements, 28–29, 38–39

Carignac, 49, 292

Carosso, Vincent, 200

Casson, Mark, 96, 109n4

Castella, Hubert de, xxxiii

Catalonia, 46. See also Tarragona

Cazeaux-Cazalet, 128

cellars, 45, 52, 139, 203, 204, 229, 231, 268

cépage, 13, 50, 112, 138–139

Champagne: appellation, creation of, 150–153

and bottle breakage, 137

and cellars, 139

and cépage, 138–139

and cooperatives, 72

and dégorgement, 137

exports of, 91–92, 136, 148

and grapes, price of, 147–148

and growers, number of, 138

and harvest size, 147, 151–152

and phylloxera, 141–147

and product development, 139–140

and production costs, 15, 151

and remuage, 137

and shippers, numbers of, 133

and syndicat du commerce, 138, 149–150

and terroir, 138

and vines, stakes used, 14–15

and vineyards, size of, 138

vintage champagne, 140

and winemaking techniques, 134–137

and wine, consumption of, 132, 136–138, 148

and wine, marketing of, 133, 139

and wine, price of, 147–148, 285–286

and wine, production of, 132, 145–151

and wineries, size of, 138–139

and yields, 151–152. See also Aube

Chaptal, 5, 18

chaptalization, 18, 69, 291

Chartrons, 115

Château Lafite, 122

Château Latour, 5, 114, 120, 121, 122

Château Loudenne, 100

Château Margaux, 123

Chile: living standards in, 241

population of, 241, 267

and wines, area of, 245

and wine, consumption of, 217

and wine, production of, 245

and yields, 245

Christie’s, 26

Civit, Emilio, 243, 272

claret, 25–26

109, prices of, in UK, 97. See also Bordeaux

Cobden-Chevalier Treaty, 87

Cocks and Féret, 118–119

Cognac, 27

commodity chains, xxxiii, 77–79, 98–99, 192–193

Compagnie des Salins du Midi (CSM), 55, 71

Confédération générale des vignerons du Midi (CGV), 70

cooperatives, 71–74, 253, 267

Coste-Floret, Paul, 19

Croft, John, 157

cultivation, 11–17

and economies of scale, 53–57

and harvest, fluctuations in size of, 7

labor requirements for, 1n1, 7, 9

and vines, density of, 14, 199. See also plowing; pruning

Cuyo, 241–243. See also Mendoza

Davis, Ralph, 24–25

Denis, Pierre, 248

Denman, James, 178

dessert wines, 24–25, 197, 213, 269

Dion, Roger, 22

distillation, 21, 60

Domecq, 174n10, 188

Dovaz, Michel, 135

downy mildew, 96, 122–124, 291

Du Breuil, Alphonse, 11–17

Dubois, Raymond, 225, 228–229, 232

Duguid, Paul, 95, 158–159

economies of scale: in the vineyard, 54–56, 199–201

in the winery, 48–53, 228, 254. See also vertical integration

Engel’s law, 32

Faith, Nicolas, 100n75, 122n32, 134, 230n43

fermentation, 19–20. See also wine making: in hot climates

Ferry, Jules, 64, 266

Föex, Gustave, 39

Ford, Richard, 21, 171

Forrester, J. J., 85, 168

France: and adulteration, 59–63

agrarian syndicates in, 64–65

and distilling, 60

and exports, 3n1, 41, 104

and growers, number of, 3, 63–64

and imports, 41, 53, 104

living standards in, 32, 240

and phylloxera, 36–40, 264

and phylloxera, cost of, 36

population of, 240

and railways, 22, 31–32

and tariffs, 45, 60, 105

and taxes, 23, 29

Third Republic, 63–65, 266

and transport, costs of, 31–32

urbanization in, 22, 32

and vines, area of, 27, 37, 40

and vineyards, size of, 10–11, 53, 273–275

wages in, 40

and wine, consumption of, 30, 32–33, 61–62, 263

and wine, overproduction of, 168–170

and wine, price of, 35, 40–41

and wine, production of, 5–6, 36, 53, 60–62, 104, 263–264

and wineries, size of, 53

Francis, Alan, 94n49

François, André, 137

Galanti, Amerino, 255

Galicia, 258

Gide, Charles, 63, 72, 74, 76, 265, 267

Gilbeys, 99–100, 139, 147, 229, 238

Gladstone, William, 85–86

gold rush, 192

in Australia, 223

in California, 195

Gourvish, Terry, 100–101

grafting, 13

Griffe Law, 4, 61

growing conditions, xxxv, 5, 191–192, 243–244, 267–268

Guy, Kolleen, 141

Guyot, Jules, 56, 63, 111

gypsum, 18, 182

Hamburg sherry, 180–181

Hancock, David, 25, 272

Haraszthy, Agoston, 198, 211, 272

Hardy, Thomas, 222–223, 224, 226, 227, 235, 261

harvest ordinances, 15

harvesting, 15, 247–248

Harvey’s Bristol Cream, 184

Hassall, Dr. Arthur, 95

Henderson, Alexander, 27, 157

Hilgard, Eugene W., 200–201, 203, 206

Hume, David, 111, 159

Husmann, George, 200, 201, 206

hybrids, 39, 291

immigrants, 192

intercropping, 16, 115, 225–226

Italian-Swiss Colony, 198, 207–208

Italy: and exports, 41, 46

living standards in, 32, 240

and phylloxera, 46

population of, 240

and railways, 32

and regional output, 48

and tariffs, 105

urbanization in, 32

and vines, area of, 28, 46–47

wages in, 40

and wine, consumption of, 33, 46–47, 263

and wine, price of, 40–41

and wine, production of, 46–47

Jacquemin, George, 51

Judgment of Paris, 29

Judt, Tony, 63

Jullien, André, 24, 115–116, 118, 137

Kaplan, Temma, 188–189

Kelly, Alexander, 221, 222, 235

Klein, Benjamin, 93

La Mancha, 36, 44

La Trobe, Charles, 222

Labrouse, Ernest, 11

Lachiver, Marcel, 11

Lachman, Henry, 212

Lamarre, René, 143

Lamoreaux, Naomi, 216

Lapsley, James, 217, 219, 271, 272

layering, 13, 291

Le Roy Laudie, Emmanuel, 1, 45

Levi, Leone, 102

Lheureux, Lucien, 143

Libecap, Gary, 109n4

Lipton, Thomas, 238

Loi des Boissons, France, 69

Los Angeles, 197, 213

Loubère, Leo, 70

Madeira, 24

Maraussan cooperative, 73

Marqués de Riscal, 45

Marsala, 87

McCulloch, John, 84–85, 136

Médoc, 14–15, 111, 114, 117–119, 121–123. See also Bordeaux

Melbourne, 232, 233

Mendoza: and adulteration, 250–252

and brands, 255

and cartels, 253, 260–261

and cooperatives, 253

and grapes, price of, 249, 256–260

and immigration, 254, 256–258

and import substitution, 251

and income elasticity of demand, 257

irrigation in, 242, 243, 257

and overproduction, 249–250, 256–259

railways in, 243

sharecropping in, 244–245

and taxes, 246

and vertical integration, 255

and vines, area of, 243

and vineyards, size of, 245–246

and vinos de traslado, 254, 259

and wine, price of, 250, 255, 258–259

and wine, production of, 242, 244

and wine, quality of, 248

and wineries, size of, 246–247, 251, 254. See also Argentina; San Juan

Mercier, 140–141, 149

Methuen Treaty, 83, 155, 169

mévente, 68–70

Midi: and aramon, 49, 292

and economies of scale in wine making, 48–53

and growers, number of, 274–275

irrigation in, 264

and land, prices of, 67–68

overproduction in, 21

and phylloxera, 40, 54–55, 65–67

and powdery mildew, 57

and production costs, 55

railways in, 31

and vines, area of, 66

and vineyards, size of, 10, 53, 56, 273–275

and wages, 67–68

and wine making, 49–53

and wine, prices of, 279

and wine, production of, 53, 65–67

and wineries, size of, 50, 52n76, 53, 278

and yields, 55, 66, 264. See also Confédération générale des vignerons du Midi; cooperatives; mévente

Möet & Chandon, 137, 139–140

Montpellier, 31, 37, 224

Morgan, Percy T., 202, 208, 209–210, 215

Mount Ophir winery, 229, 236

Napa, 201–202, 205, 216, 219, 268, 271, 272, 276–277

New South Wales, 225, 231

New York, 202, 215, 218

New World: climate of, 192

and exports, 231

and grapes, varieties of, 200–201, 222

and immigration, 192

and land, prices of, 191

living standards in, 241

and tariffs, 105

and terroir, 192, 195

urbanization in, 232

and vertical integration, 192–193

and vines, area of, 245

wages in, 191

and wine making, 203, 224, 227–228, 264

and wine, consumption of, 193

and wine, production of, 8, 241

and wineries, size of, 192

and yields, 245. See also Argentina; Australia; California; Chile

Nye, John, 84

oidium. See powdery mildew

Olson, Mancur, 109n6

Ottavi, Octavio, 47

Pacottet, Paul, 19, 255

Palazy project, 74–75, 271

Parada y Barreto, 174–175

Paris, 22, 32, 59

and wine, price of, 34–35, 279–280

Pasteur, 17, 48–49

Paul, Harry, 134–135

Penfold, 227, 235, 261

Peninou, Ernest, 195

Penning-Rowsell, Edmund, 116

Pepys, Samuel, 26

Pérignon, Dom, 134–135

Perkins, Arthur, 224, 228, 238, 269

phylloxera, 36–40, 45–46, 96–97, 120–122, 141–145, 168, 189, 195, 200, 224–225, 264

Pierce’s disease, 198

Pijassou, René, 121

Pinney, Thomas, 195n2, 200n25

piquettes. See second wines

Planchon, Jules- Émile, 37

planting, 11–12

plastering, 291

plowing, 15, 199–200, 268

port, 24–25

and Anglo-Portuguese Treaty, 155, 169, 266

and appellation, creation of, 168–170

and blending wines, 159–160

and brands, 154, 160

and brandy, addition of, 154–156, 168

and brokers, 158

and Companhia Geral da Agricultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro, 164–166

and export houses, 158–159

and exports, 89, 93, 157

and lock-out, 166–167

and phylloxera, 168

and shippers, nationality of, 159, 165, 170, 266

and terroir, 157

and trade, importance of, 154, 157

vintage port, 24–25, 160–161

and wine, making of, 160–162

and wine, price of, 98, 283. See also Britain Methuen Treaty Ricardo, David Tarragona

Porter, George, 84

Portugal: and exports, 3n1, 155–157

and wine, consumption of, 33. See also port

powdery mildew, 35, 96–97, 195, 291. See also Spain

prix-faiteurs, 9, 114

Prohibition, 218–219, 271

provignage. See layering

pruning, 14, 56

Puglia, 47

Pure Food and Drugs Act (1906), 211

railways, 31–32

raisin wine, 59, 250

ratchet effect, 16, 205–206

Redding, Cyrus, 85, 93, 95

Ricardo, David, 159

Rioja, 45

Roberts, Edward, 199

Robinson, Jancis, 5

Roos, 17, 52, 225

Roudié, Philippe, 112

salicylic acid, 82, 182

San Francisco, 202, 203, 204, 206, 212, 232

San Juan, 243, 247

Sandeman, A. G., 85n23, 159

second wines, 21, 59

Sempé, Henri, 61, 147

Seppeltsfield, 226, 228, 230

sharecropping, 10, 46, 244–245

Shaw, Thomas G., 85, 94n49, 173, 181

Sheingate, Adam, 64–65

sherry, 24–25

and adulteration, 180–181

and albariza soils, 174

and almacenistas, 174, 183

and appellation, demand for, 187–188

and blending wines, 177

and brands, 184, 187, 189

and brandy, 185

exports of, 90–91, 172, 184

and flor, 176

and labor costs and contracts, 185–187

and Old Regime, privileges of, 173–174

and phylloxera, 186–187

and powdery mildew, 179

and product innovations, 183–185

and railways, decline in transport costs, 179

and solera system, 177–178

Spanish white, 90, 179

and terroir, 174–175

and trade, importance of, 154, 173

and vines, area of, 176

and vineyards, size of, 175–176

and wine making, 175–178

and wine, price of, 98, 172–173, 176, 282

Sicily, 46–47, 258

Simon, André, 6–7, 133, 140, 148

solera system. See sherry

Sonoma, 201–202, 205, 268, 276–277

South Australia: central wine depot in, 237–238

and exports, 231, 233

urbanization in, 232

and vineyards, size of, 226

and wine, consumption of, 221–223

and wine, production of, 227

and wine, quality of, 231

and wineries, size of, 226–227. See also Australia

Spain: and economies of scale in production, 44

and exports, 3n1, 41–43, 45

and industrial alcohol, use of, 42–44

living standards in, 32, 240

and overproduction, 21

and phylloxera, 36, 45–46

population in, 240

and powdery mildew, 42

and railways, 22, 32

and tariffs, 105

urbanization in, 22

and vines, area of, 28, 44n38

wages in, 40

and wine, consumption of, 33, 44, 263

and wine making, 44–45

and wine, price of, 40–42

and wine, production of, 104

and wine, quality of, 42

Stanford, Leland, 198

Sutherland, George, 222

Sydney, 232, 233

Tait, Maurice, 13, 156

tariffs, 105, 192

Tarragona, 42–44

Tarragona Red, 90, 162–164

tartaric acid, 242

Taulis, Enrique, 252

taxes, 23, 29

Telegraph, the, 127

tenancy arrangements, 9–10

Tennent, Sir James, 84, 179

terroir, 63–65, 112, 132, 192, 195, 243, 267–268

Third Republic (France), 63–65

Thudichum, 182–183, 233n59

Times, The, 124n37, 182–183, 221, 229

Tomba, Domingo, 244

Trianes, José, 240, 255

Tuscany, 47

Twopenny, Richard, 231

United States of America: and alcohol, consumption of, 21

living standards in, 240–241

population of, 240

and wine, consumption of, 211

and wine, production of, 196

University of California, 17, 200, 219

Veneto, 238

vertical integration, 53–57, 192, 212, 215–216, 228–229, 266

Viala, Pierre, 39

Victoria: and central wine depot, 238

and exports, 231, 233

and phylloxera, 224

and planting subsidy, 224

and vineyards, size of, 226, 268

urbanization in, 232

and wine, consumption of, 221–223

and wine, quality of, 231. See also Australia

Victoria Wine Company, 99

Villanueva, Elías, 248–250, 252

vinos de traslado, 254–255, 259

Viticulture Industrielle, La, 53–56

Vizetelly, Henry, 138–139, 161

wages, 40, 191–192

Waldeck-Rousseau law, 64

Ward, Ebenezer, 226

Weir, Ronald, 101n80

Wetmore, Charles, 204, 206

William and Humbert, 177

Wilson, Richard, 100–101

wine, consumption of, 263

wine, exports of, 104

wine, imports of, 104

wine, price of, 40, 279–289

wine, production of, 8, 104, 192

wine making, 17–21: and acidity of grapes, 18

crushing in, 19, 203

and economies of scale, 53–57

in hot climates, 48–53, 203, 224, 227–228, 264

pasteurization in, 51

sulfating in, 51

and quality, variability of, 17

and yeasts, use of, 49–51. See also fermentation

Yarra Valley, 230, 222

Young, Arthur, 7–8, 222