Contents

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List of Illustrations

List of Tables

Acknowledgments

Maps

Introduction

Weights, Measures, and Currencies

Acronyms and Abbreviations

PART I: Technological and Organizational Change in Europe, 1840–1914

Chapter 1
European Wine on the Eve of the Railways

What Is Wine?

Family Producers

The Production of Grapes prior to Phylloxera

Traditional Wine-Making Technologies

Markets, Institutions, and Wine Consumption

The Development of Fine Export Wines

Chapter 2
Phylloxera and the Development of Scientific Viti-Viniculture

The Growth in Wine Consumption in Producer Countries

Phylloxera and the Destruction of Europe’s Vines

Phylloxera and the International Response in Spain and Italy

Wine Making, Economies of Scale and the Spread of Viticulture to Hot Climates

La Viticulture Industrielle and Vertical Integration: Wine Production in the Midi

Chapter 3
Surviving Success in the Midi: Growers, Merchants, and the State

Phylloxera and Wine Adulteration

Politics, Phylloxera, and the Vineyard during France’s Third Republic

The Midi: From Shortage to Overproduction

From Informal to Formal Cooperation: La Cave Coopérative Vinicole

PART II: The Causes of Export Failure

Chapter 4
Selling to Reluctant Drinkers: The British Market and the International Wine Trade

The Political Economy of the Wine Trade in Britain prior to 1860

Gladstone and the Rise and Decline in Consumption in the Late Nineteenth Century

The Retail Market and Product Adulteration

Who Controls the Chain? Experiments at “Buyer-Led” Commodity Chains

PART III: Institutional Innovation: Regional Appellations

Chapter 5
Bordeaux

Claret, Trade, and the Organization of Production

The 1855 Classification and the Branding of Claret

Supply Volatility, Vine Disease, and the Decline in Reputation of Fine Claret

Response to Overproduction: A Regional Appellation

Chapter 6
Champagne

The Myth of Dom Pérignon and the Development of Champagne

Economies of Scale, Brands, and Marketing

The Response to Phylloxera

Organization of a Regional Appellation

Chapter 7
Port

Port and the British Market

Product Development and the Demands of a Mass Market

Rent Seeking, Fraud, and Regional Appellations

Chapter 8
From Sherry to Spanish White

The Organization of Wine Production in Jerez

Sherry and the British Market

Product Innovation and Cost Control

Wine Quality and the Demand for a Regional Appellation

PART IV: The Great Divergence: The Growth of Industrial Wine Production in the New World

Chapter 9
Big Business and American Wine: The California Wine Association

Creating Vineyards and Wineries in a Labor-Scarce Economy

Production Instability and the Creation of the California Wine Association

The California Wine Association and the Market for California’s Wines

Chapter 10
Australia: The Tyranny of Distance and Domestic Beer Drinkers

Learning Grape Growing and Wine Making

Organization of Wine Production

In Search of Markets

Chapter 11
Argentina: New World Producers and Old World Consumers

Establishing the Industry

Redefining the Industry

The Limits to Growth and the Return to Crisis

Conclusion

Old World Producers and Consumers

New World Producers and Consumers

The Wine Industry in the Twentieth Century

Appendix 1
Vineyards and Wineries

A.1. Area of Vines and Output per Winery in France, 1924 and 1934

A.2 Number of Growers and Area of Vines by County, California, 1891

A.3. Winery Size in the Midi and Algeria, 1903

Appendix 2
Wine Prices

A.4. Farm and Paris Wine Prices, July 1910

A.5. Price List, Berry Brothers, London, 1909

Glossary

Bibliography

Index

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