Index
ABC analysis, 229
Acceptance Sampling, 42
acid dye fixation curve, 322
classification for nylon dyeing, 320
dyeing curve for dyes type 3, 322
dyeing curve for dyes type 1 and 2, 321
dyeing recipe for nylon 6.6 with acid dye, 321
air currents, 150
air temperature, 289
airflow, 290
alkali-shock method, 341
American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), 361
amount of needling See punching density
Analytical Hierarchy Process (AHP), 135
anti-pilling finish, 405–7
fabric construction, 406
fabric finishing types, 407
fibres variables, 405
preparation and dyeing, 406
yarn variables, 405–6
anti-static finish, 408–9
half-life time relation for decay of charge intensity and textile antistatic property, 409
process control, 428–71
damage causes to fabric during sewing, 441–9
fusing control and pressing operations, storage and packaging, 449–54
quality evaluation of accessories, 465–71
sewing, 432–41
spreading, pattern making and cutting, 428–31
quality evaluation of apparel, 454–63
Fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST), 458–63
Kawabata evaluation system, 455–8
tailorability and low-stress mechanical problems, 454–5
quality evaluation of apparel in sewability testing, 463–5
seam appearance, 465
seam damage or needle cutting, 465
seam slippage, 464
seam strength, 464
arithmetic mean, 44
atmospheric condition, 152
autolevelling system of Rieter RSB 851 drawframe, 162
early and late levelling, 168–70
over- and under-correction, 167–8
scanning rollers of Rieter RSB 851 drawframe, 162
autonomous maintenance, 237
auxiliaries, 307
backward feed, 173
balloon height, 200–1
bar chart, 8
Barco Sycotex loom monitoring systems, 274
bast crop, 97
bending rigidity, 244
bio-polishing, 416–17
blends dyeing, 322–6
continuous, 325–6
exhaust, 323–5
overview, 132–5
raw material control, 133–5
cleaning, 139–40
mixing, 140–1
opening, 137–9
strategy, 141–2
yarn quality characteristics, 135
yarn count and process control problems, 153–7
blowroom machine, 232
bottom roller, 160
bowl surface, 384
breakdown maintenance, 226
buttons, 470–1
C chart, 59
calendering process, 380–4
bowl surface, 384
chasing finish, 382
chintz, glazing or friction, 382
damping, 383
embossed, 383
fabric width, 384
moire, 383
nip pressure, 383
roll speed, 384
Schreiner, 382
swissing, normal gloss or simple calendering, 381
threading, 383
card modification, 150–1
card waste, 150–2
carding, 56–7
card clothing, wire maintenance and card waste control, 147–53
process control considerations, 152–3
process control, 132–57
process control parameters, 142–7
cylinder region, 145–7
illustration, 143
licker-in zone, 143–5
silver forming zone, 147
yarn count and process control problems, 153–7
carding bar, 145
cards, 233–4
central tendency, 44–5
check sheet, 7
chemical finishes, 371
chemical metering system, 369
chemical processing, 105
chi-square, 55–7
circular comb, 175
process control, 139–40
factors affecting intensity of trash liberation and separation, 140
closed-loop control system, 15–17
d.c. drive speed control, 17
coefficient of friction, 244–5
coefficient of variation, 47
coiler tube choking, 167
collector speed, 290
comber, 234–5
comber sliver, 180
comber waste, 175–7
guidelines, 176
norms for improvement in mean length, 177
elements, 171–8
machine productivity, 177–8
setting, 175
future trends, 189
process control operations, 158–89
yarn quality and process control problems, 178–81
defects and their causes, 179–81
compact shrubs, 91
comparator, 19–20
unity gain error amplifier, 20
Complex Quality Index (CQI), 86
computer managed maintenance system, 239
condenser, 182–3
machines, 334–8
one-bath-one-stage method, 327
one-bath-two-stage method, 327
process control, 312–14
Econtrol method, 313
pad-dry-cure method, 314
pad-steam method, 313
pat-dry-pad-steam method, 313
range, 314
control chart, 57–9
control limits, 7
application in textile processing, 39
components, 18–28
comparator and controller, 19–20
derivative (D-) controller, 26–7
integral (I-) controller, 23
ON-OFF controller, 20–1
proportional-integral-derivative (PID-) or three term controller, 27–8
controller, 23–6
proportional (P-) controller, 21–3
sensors/transducers, 18
signal conditioner and transmitter, 18–19
design process, 28–34
controller key parameters determination, 32–5
digital control system, 34–6
intelligent control systems using soft computing, 36–9
overview, 14–18
feedback and feed-forward control, 17–18
open-loop and closed-loop, 15–17
principles in textile manufacturing, 14–39
controller, 19–20
key parameters determination, 32–5
combined feed-forward and closed-loop feedback control system, 34
Ziegler-Nichols PID parameter tuning rules, 35
unity gain error amplifier, 20
conveyor speed, 288
corrective maintenance, 226
cotton, 357–8
woven fabric pretreatment profile, 358
cotton dyeing, 302–15
other dyes, 315
direct dyeing curve, 315
reactive dye and dyeing application, 302–15
auxiliaries, 307
electrolyte effect, 306
liquor ratio, 307
pH influence, 306
process control in continuous process, 312–14
process control in exhaust dyeing process, 307–12
selection and compatibility, 307
temperature influence, 305
reactive dye properties, 302–5
addition reaction cotton and reactive dye, 303
major properties of different types of dyes, 304
structures with single reactive group, 305
substitution reaction between cotton and reactive dye, 303
factors influencing growth and quality, 83–5
completely opened boll and hair seed, 84
quality indexes, 85–9
Cotton Inventory (CI), 135
courses per inch, 249
critical application value (CAV), 373
critical difference (CD), 48–53
fibre test data, 50–1
sample size for yarn properties, 49
tests for various fibre properties, 49
yarn test data, 51–3
process and quality control, 81–107
fibre quality evaluation, 105–6
future trends, 107
harvesting, 89–96
indexes for cotton fibre quality, 85–9
natural lignocellulosic/bast fibre, 96–100
overview, 81
production, 100–5
curing, 375–6
cutting, 430–1
drilling, 431
frayed edges, 430
fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges, 430
notches, 431
pattern precision, 431
ply-to-ply fusion, 430
single-edge fusion, 430–1
Cyclops, 272
cylinder clothing, 147–9
cylinder-flat setting, 146
cylinder region, 145–7
cylinder speed, 145
influence, 146
cylinder undercasing, 152
damping, 383
decision rule, 60–1
defoliation, 90–1
defuzzification, 38
derivative (D-) controller, 26–7
unit step input response, 29
descriptive statistics, 42
design out maintenance, 228
die-swell, 115–16
die temperature, 291
die-to-collector distance (DCD), 289–90
digital control system, 34–6
closed-loop, 34
direct printing, 339–45
blends, 343–5
disperse/reactive printing, 344–5
pigment printing, 343–4
cellulose, 340–1
profile by all-in method with reactive dye on cotton, 340
profile by two-stage method with reactive dye on cotton, 341
typical recipe of alkali pad solution, 341
nylon, 342–3
polyamide printing paste recipe, 343
polyester, 342
disperse dye on polyester, 342
reduction cleaning recipe, 342
discharge printing, 346–7
disease control, 99–100
disperse dye, 316–20
chemical structures, 317
classification, 318
disperse dyeing, 321–2
dyeing curve of nylon with disperse dye, 323
dyeing recipe for nylon with disperse dye, 323
disperse ink, 355
disperse dye character used in inkjet printing, 355
disperse printing, 344–5
profile of printing with disperse/reactive dyes in blends(two-stage, alkali-shock), 345
profile of printing with disperse/reactive dyes in blends(two-stage, pad-stream), 345
doffer clothing, 149
dosing unit, 309
draft distribution, 160
drafting angle, 212–13
draw frame, 234–5
elements, 159–64
future trends, 189
load-elongation curves of an undrawn filament, 122
performance in relation to fibre properties, 124
process control operations, 158–89
process control problems, 166–71
defects and their causes, 170–1
yarn quality, 164–6
Drimarene Brilliant Blue K-BL, 354
Drimarene Brilliant Red K-4BL, 354
Drimarene Golden Yellow K-2R, 354
dry-jet wet spinning, 114
dry spinning, 114
drying, 375–6
dust removal, 161
dust waste, 161
dye compatibility, 307
dye fixation, 341
process control in textiles, 300–38
batchwise dyeing machines, 326–34
blends, 322–6
continuous dyeing machines, 334–8
cotton, 302–15
synthetic materials, 315–22
autoleveller, 168–70
illustration, 169
optimum timing of RSB 851 drawframe autoleveller, 170
Econtrol process, 314
Elbit Vision System, 274
electrolyte effect, 306
electromagnetic interference (EMI), 19
embossed calendering, 383
temperature and humidity, 207–8
control, 217–20
affecting factors, 205–8
control, 202–5
measurement, 203–5
theoretical model, 202–3
enzyme finishing, 416–17
EVS I-TEX, 274
one-bath-two-stage method, 324–5
dyeing curves of blends, 325
polyester dyeing profile, 319
process control, 307
alkali-controllable dyeing curve for dye with large-(ES) value, 310
dyeing curve for dyes with moderate (E-S) value, 311
dyeing curve for dyes with small (E-S) value, 311
general batchwise wash-off process for medium shade dyeing, 312
profiles of dye with large-(ES) value, 311
profiles of dye with small to moderate (ES) value, 311
progressive and degressive control of dosing amounts, 310
SERF value in exhaust dyeing, 309
temperature-controllable dyeing curve for dye with large-(ES) value, 310
two-bath method, 323–4
typical dyeing curve of polyester with high temperature dyeing method, 319
'F test, 53–7
fabric abrasion resistance, 78
Fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST), 458–63
FAST-2 (bending meter), 460
working principle, 460
FAST-1 (compression meter), 459–60
working principle, 459
FAST-4 (dimensional stability test meter), 461–3
steps to test dimensional stability, 462
typical FAST control chart, 463
FAST-3 (extension meter), 460–1
working principle, 461
fabric bursting strength, 77–8
fabric elongation, 77
fabric strength, 76–7
fabric tear strength, 77
fabric tensile strength, 77
fabric thickness, 76
fabric tightness factor, 249
fabric weight, 76
fabric yield, 250
Fabriscan, 272
Failure Mode and Effect Analysis (FMEA), 5
false twister, 184
Fast Dobby Change (FDC), 270
feed, 173–4
threshold length of fibres in the sliver and noil, 173–4
feed-forward control, 17–18
feed plate, 144
feed rate, 287–8
feed roller, 144
feedback control, 17–18
fertilisation, 98–9
fibre elongation, 73
fibre fineness, 73
fibre length, 72
fibre macro structure, 127
control points, 127–30
maintenance, 129–30
maintenance schedule, 130
material testing, 127–9
drawing and heat setting, 122–7
future trends, 130
overview, 109–11
process control, 110
polymerisation and fibre spinning, 111–22
process control in synthetic textile fibre, 109–30
fibre maturity, 73–4
fibre parallelisation, 173
fibre properties, 72–5
fibre quality, 105–6
method of sampling from raw materials in loose state, 106
fibre quality index (FQI), 86–7
fibre spinning, 114–22
different types of spin finish applicators, 121
frictional behaviour of liquid-lubricated fibres, 120
sensitivity in respect of stress at the freeze line, 117
sensitivity plot of freeze line location in melt spinning, 119
spinneret geometry influence on die-swell during polypropylene spinning, 115
fibre strength, 72–3
fibre test data, 50–1
fire retardant finishes, 401–2
fixed costs, 277
fiat-screen printing, 350–1
Flexible Manufacturing System (FMS), 10
float loops, 248
flow-meters, 367–9
fly generation, 208–13
affecting factors, 208–9
humidity, 209
causes, 208
forward feed, 173
fusing operations, 449–51
colour changes during fusing, 450–1
causes and solutions, 452
fusing distortion, 451
causes and solutions, 452
strike-through and strike-back, 450
causes and solutions for strike-back, 451
causes and solutions for strike-through, 450
fuzzy inference, 38
fuzzy logic control (FLC), 36–7
fuzzy rule, 38
fuzzy set, 38
ginning, 92–6
most common lint cleaning sequence for roller ginned cotton, 94
saw-type lint cleaner, 93
goal programming (GP), 134
Gossypium barbadense, 83–4
Gossypium hirsutum, 83–4
hairiness, 53–4
hard waste control, 277–8
harvest time, 100
headwise noil value, 180
parameters on crystallinity and orientation of fibres, 126
heat transfer printing, 348
Honestometer, 409
hot air, 291
process variables and process variables, 285–8
conveyor speed, 288
feed rate, 287–8
water jet pressure, 286
water jet pressure profile, 287
hygral expansion (HE), 461
hypothesis testing, 59–61
I-TEX, 272
industrial textile inkjet printing machine, 359
ink preparations, 353–6
inkjet printing, 359
after-treatment, 360
profile for inkjet printed fabric, 361
defects prevention, 359–60
fabric substrates pretreatment, 356–9
cotton, 357–8
polyester, 358
pretreament new technologies, 358–9
vertical view of ink drop shape, 357
future trends, 360
integral (I-) controller, 23
d.c. drive unit step input response, 26
unit step input response, 25
soft computing, 36–9
closed-loop fuzzy control system, 36
membership functions of input and output variables, 37
irregular selvedge, 171
Kawabata evaluation system, 455–8
KES-F2 (bender tester), 456
working principle, 457
KES-F3 (compression tester), 456–8
working principle, 458
KES-F4 (surface tester), 458
working principle, 459
KES-F1 (tensile and shear tester), 455–6
working principle, 457
sixteen parameters describing fabric properties, 456
Kayacelon React CN, 324–5
Kevlar, 275
Kinky Filling Detector (KFD), 276
Knit+Integrated system, 263
KnitMaster, 263
common faults, 253–9
sources, 254
quality control, 248–51
controlling GSM, 249
quality factors from consumers point of view, 250–1
quality testing, 249–50
key control points, 244–8
checking and testing of yarn, 244–5
machinery checking, 245–8
machinery checking, 245–8
setting up process and machine parameters, 247–8
process control, 243–64
common faults in knitted fabrics, 253–9
future trends in online quality control, 262–4
knitted fabrics quality control, 248–51
knitted loop length control, 251–3
other factors, 259–62
process control factors, 259–62
dimensional properties of knitted fabrics and garments, 259–60
prerequisites for faultless production, 260
supervisor role in quality control, 260–1
labour cost, 277
lap running slack, 180
lap sheet thickness, 172–3
effect of cleaning performance, 173
autoleveller, 168–70
illustration, 169
optimum timing of RSB 851 drawframe autoleveller, 170
Launderometer, 465
licker-in setting, 151
influence, 144
licker-in zone, 143–5
linear programming (LP), 134
flow circulation parameters, 330
flow rate influence of dye solution, 330
liquor ratio, 307
Loom data system, 262
control, 253
importance of maintaining loop length, 251–2
measurement, 252–3
low glass-transition temperature, 355
low-liquor finishing, 417–21
bubble size and size distribution, 420
foam properties, 417
foam stability, 418–19
foam viscosity, 419–20
foam wetting power, 420–21
foaming degree, 417–18
low viscosity, 355
machine productivity, 163
future trends, 236–9
computer managed maintenance system, 239
'5S' concept application, 238
total productive maintenance (TPM), 236–8
overview, 225–31
classification, 226–8
material and cost control, 228–30
preventive maintenance frequency, 227
productivity and people factor, 230–1
ring and rotor spinning machine, 235–6
spinning preparatory machine, 231–5
yarn spinning machine, 225–39
manual harvesting, 89–90
Manufacturing Execution System (MES), 263
material handling, 164
material testing, 127–9
fibre/filament, 127–8
investigation of fibre micro structure, 128
mechanical properties, 128
tensile testing of fibres, 129
uniformity, 128–9
yarn uniformity, 129
mechanical finishes, 371
mechanical harvesting, 89–90
mechanical processing, 103–5
moisture content effect and scutching intensity on fibre capacity and quality, 105
unit for producing bast fibres for pulp industry, 103
median, 44–5
melt blowing, 288
process variables and process control, 288–96
materials variables, 292
melt blowing process, 289
off-line processing variables and its control, 291–2
operational/online variables and their control, 289–91
melt spinning, 114–15
mercerisation, 389–91
caustic soda in padding solution, 389
dwell time, 390
moisture control, 389–91
padding solution temperature, 390
recuperator temperature, 390
residual caustic soda, 391
souring, 390
washing, 390
wet pick-up, 390
micronaire value, 50
mixing, 140–1
mode, 45
symmetric and asymmetric frequency curve, 46
mote knife, 145
natural bast fibre, 96–100
process control parameters, 97
natural lignocellulosic fibre, 96–100
process control parameters, 97
navel design, 216
needle gating, 247–8
needle penetration, 281–2
process variables and process control, 280–4
needle loom diagram, 280
needle penetration depth, 281–2
needle type, 284
needling amount (punching density), 283–4
stroke frequency, 282–3
web parameters, 281
needle type, 284
neps, 56–7
removal, 181
process control, 279–96
future trends, 295–6
hydroentanglement, 285–8
melt blowing, 288–92
needle punching, 280–4
spunbonding, 292–5
Novacron P, 340
nylon, 320–2
air gap, 291–2
air supply angle, 292
die hole size, 291
On-Machine measurement, 252
ON-OFF controller, 20–1
illustration, 21
online process control, 269–70
open-loop control system, 15–17
d.c. drive speed control, 15
process control, 137–9
factors affecting opening intensity, 138
operational/online variables and control, 294–5
air suction speed and Venturi gap, 294
bonding temperature and pressure, 295
collection speed, 295
primary air temperature, 294
quench air rate, 294
throughput, 294
opportunistic maintenance, 226
optimal running conditions, 136
OPTIPAC VMC-12, 377
Orthopac RVMC, 377
autoleveller, 167–8
illustration, 168
Sliver test, 169
overflow dyeing machines, 329–34
dyeing process control factors, 332
loading capacity, 332–4
machine classification, 330–2
overflow vs jet dyeing machines, 333
schematic of down L-shape dyeing machine, 331
schematic of O-shape dyeing machine, 331
schematic of U-shape dyeing machine, 331
schematic of up L-shape dyeing machine, 331
p chart, 59
package density, 328
yarn count and type, 329
package dyeing machines yarn, 327–9
packaging, 453–4
padding mangle, 373–5
pattern making, 429–30
pest control, 99–100
pH influence, 306
piecing wave, 175
pigment ink, 355–6
pigment printing, 343–4
profile of direct printing with pigment in blends, 344
planned maintenance, 236–8
plasma treatments, 421–4
discharge power, 423
environmental effects, 424
nature of gas used, 423
plasma-treated surface ageing, 424
system pressure, 423
temperature change, 424
treatment duration, 423–4
point density, 148
weight reduction, 391–3
polymerisation, 111–14
dimethyl terephthalate properties, 112
MEG (ethylene glycol) properties, 112
nylon 66 polymer properties, 113
PAN powder properties, 113
PET polyester polymer properties, 113
purified terephthalic acid properties, 112
post-carding segment, 146–7
pre-carding segment, 146–7
pre-combing, 172
pre-shrinking finish, 387–9
belt cooling, 388
belts and blankets, 388
damping, 388
fabric width, 388
shrinkage, 388
speed, 388
temperature, 388
predictive maintenance, 227–8
pressing operations, 451–3
effect of fabric properties on pressing performance, 453
preparation and handling, 452–3
pressing conditions, 453
pressure, 295
preventive maintenance, 227
primary air See hot air
PRIN-TEX, 274
process analysis, 6–9
check sheet for data collection, 8
histogram, 9
X bar and Range chart, 8
process control, 6–9
apparel manufacturing, 428–71
damage causes to fabric during sewing, 441–9
fusing control and pressing operations, storage and packaging, 449–54
quality evaluation of accessories, 465–71
quality evaluation of apparel in sewability testing, 463–5
quality evaluation of apparel in tailorability testing, 454–63
sewing, 432–41
basics in textile manufacturing, 3–13
batchwise dyeing machines, 326–34
overflow and jet dyeing machines for fabric, 329–34
package dyeing machines for yarn, 327–9
blowroom and carding operations, 132–57
check sheet for data collection, 8
continuous dyeing machines, 334–8
conventional padder vs Kusters padder, 337
factors, 334–8
schematic of continuous range for polyester/cellulosic blends dyeing, 335
control points, 127–30
cultivating natural textile fibre, 81–107
cutting, 430–1
misaligned notches, 431
drawing, combing and speed frame operations, 158–89
drawing and heat setting, 122–7
dyeing of textiles, 300–38
basic requirements of water quality, 302
blends, 322–6
cotton, 302–15
dyes classification according to usage, 301
influence factors in printing process, 301
synthetic materials, 315–22
fibre quality evaluation, 105–6
harvesting, 89–96
harvest control factors, 91–2
indexes for cotton fibre quality, 85–9
knitting, 243–64
common faults in knitted fabrics, 253–9
future trends in online quality control, 262–4
key control points, 244–8
knitted fabrics quality control, 248–51
knitted loop length control, 251–3
other factors, 259–62
manufacturing, 7
natural lignocellulosic/bast fibre, 96–100
nonwovens production, 279–96
future trends, 295–6
hydroentanglement: process variables, 285–8
melt blowing: process variables, 288–92
needle punching: process variables, 280–4
spunbonding: process variables, 292–5
fibre manufacturing, 110
natural fibre production, 82
steps, 4
tools and techniques, 4
pattern making, 429–30
polymerisation and fibre spinning, 111–22
process mapping, analysis, 5–9
production, 100–5
chemical processing, 105
mechanical processing, 103–5
moisture content in raw material, 102–3
retting of raw material, 101–2
ring and rotor spinning, 191–221
overview, 191–5
roller and screen printing machines, 348–53
printing machines comparisons, 349
screen printing, 350–3
sewing, 432–41
stitching defects and control, 432–6
spreading, 429
statistical process control (SPC) and improving processes, 9–11
synthetic textile fibre manufacturing, 109–30
textile finishing, 363–425
anti-pilling finish, 405–7
approach, 364–5
basic finishing machines, 373–6
calendering process, 380–4
finishing with alkali, 389–93
fire damage protection and water penetration, 401–5
future trends, 425
general process control, 371–3
instrumental, 365–9
low-liquor finishing, 417–21
other types of finishing, 407–13
plasma treatments, 421–4
processes and their classification, 369–71
resin finishes, 396–401
softeners, 393–6
stenter machines, 376–80
surface raising and pre-shrinking finishes, 385–9
wool treatment and enzyme finishes, 413–17
textiles printing, 339–62
direct printing, 339–45
discharge, resist and heat transfer printing, 345–8
inkjet printing and ink-jet printing machines, 353–60
product safety and low-carbon production, 360–1
weaving, 265–78
controlling loom productivity, efficiency and fabric quality, 267–9
cost control, 276–8
online, quality control and monitoring, 269–76
X bar and Range chart, 8
brainstorming objectives and their further classifications, 11
Pareto diagram showing the frequency of defects, 12
process mapping, 5–6
cause-effect diagram, 6
Procion PX, 340
production cost, 277
proportional integral derivative (PID) algorithm, 220
d.c drive unit step input response, 31
unit step input response, 30
proportional-integral (PI-) controller, 23–6
d.c drive unit step input response, 28
unit step input response, 27
proportional (P-) controller, 21–3
step response with small and large value of Kp, 24
unit step input response, 22
punching density, 283–4
cultivating natural textile fibre, 81–107
fibre quality evaluation, 105–6
future trends, 107
harvesting, 89–96
control factors, 91–2
indexes for cotton fibre quality, 85–9
natural lignocellulosic/bast fibre, 96–100
overview, 81
natural fibre production, 82
production, 100–5
chemical processing, 105
mechanical processing, 103–5
moisture content in raw material, 102–3
retting of raw material, 101–2
weaving, 270–6
Barco automatic loom inspection and monitoring systems, 275
Cyclops automatic on loom fabric inspection system, 276
fabric inspection unit, 271
on-loom inspection system of Elbit Vision System, 275
Uster Fabriscan inspection system, 273
R chart, 57–9
illustration, 58
radio frequency interference (RFI), 19
raised surface finishes, 385–7
emerising, 386–7
range, 45
control into the blowroom, 133–5
moisture content, 102–3
retting, 101–2
dyeing application, 302–15
auxiliaries, 307
electrolyte effect, 306
liquor ratio, 307
pH influence, 306
process control in continuous process, 312–14
process control in exhaust dyeing process, 307
properties, 302–5
selection and compatibility, 307
temperature influence, 305
selection, 307
commodity dyes in red. yellow and blue, 309
key issues, 309
reactive ink, 354
reactive printing See disperse printing
relaxation shrinkage (RS), 461
Remazol P, 340
resin finishes, 396–401
fabric properties, 397–401
effects obtained by three resin finishing methods, 400
methods comparisons, 400
fibre properties, 396
yarn properties, 397
resist printing, 347–8
Restricted Substance List (RSL), 361
raw material, 101–2
chemical composition changes in fibre production process, 101
physical-mechanical properties changes of flax fibre, 102
rigmel methods, 387
Ring-data, 262
ring diameter, 200
ring friction, 199
end breakage rate control, 202–5
factors affecting end breakage rate, 205–8
factors affecting spinning tension, 195–201
fly generation and twist variation control, 208–13
future trends, 220–1
machine, 235–6
maintenance, 235–6
process control, 191–221
spinning tension, 191–5
roll speed, 384
rotary-screen printing, 351–3
schematics of flat-screen printing machine, 352
schematics of rotary-screen printing machine, 352
rotor diameter, 215–16
end breakage rate and twist loss control, 217–20
future trends, 220–1
machine, 235–6
maintenance, 236
process control, 191–221
routine maintenance, 227
roving tension, 182
roving twist, 181–2
values of roving twist multipliers, 182
run-2-run (R2R), 12
'5S' concept, 238
sampling error, 48
Sanforizing process, 371
sap doubling process, 172
Schreiner calendering, 382
screen printing, 350–3
flat-screen, 350–1
rotary-screen, 351–3
causes and solutions, 436–41
differential feed, 437–9
pucker due to unequal machine feeding, 439
fabric shrinkage, 441
image, 441
general, 436–7
causes and solutions, 438
seam pucker example, 437
mismatched patterns, 441
image, 442
sewing thread shrinkage, 440
sewing thread tension, 439–40
image, 440
structural jamming, 437
image, 438
sensors, 18
causes and solutions for seam pucker, 436–41
differential feed, 437–9
fabric shrinkage, 441
general, 436–7
mismatched patterns, 441
sewing thread shrinkage, 440
sewing thread tension, 439–40
structural jamming, 437
stitching defects and control, 432–6
causes and solutions for skipped stitches, 433
causes and solutions for staggered stitches, 434
causes and solutions for thread breakage, 436
causes and solutions for unbalanced stitches, 434
causes and solutions for variable stitch density, 435
needle breakage, 436
skipped stitches, 432
staggered stitches, 434
thread breakage, 435
variable stitch density, 435
mechanical problems, 447–9
causes and solutions, 448
damage process, 447–9
knitted fabrics damaged during stitching, 447
thermal problems, 442–6
causes and solutions, 444
fabric defects examples by wrong needle choice, 444
generation and loss of heat in needle, 442–3
high needle temperatures and their effects, 443–4
machine variables affecting needle-heat, 444–5
material variables affecting needle-heat, 445–6
needle points types, 445
sewing threads, 468–70
length per tread holder, 470
shrinkage, 470
strength and elongation, 469–70
twist balance and number of twists, 470
yarn diameter, 468
yarn number of sewing thread, 468–9
yarn ply, 469
Shade Variation Analyser (SVA), 274
signal conditioner, 18–19
instrumentation amplifier, 19
significance testing, 61–72
single mean (large sample available), 61
single mean (small sample available), 61
single proportion, 64–72
cones weight gains after conditioning under two different process conditions, 68
ring frame breakage, 71
significance testing of means, 65
waste found at various speed frames in spinning unit, 71
yarn samples manufactured by two different card setting, 67
single variance, 63
two means (independent samples), 62–3
two means (matched samples), 63
two variance, 63
skew See spirality
skew controllers, 378
sliver disposition, 161
sliver doubling process, 172
sliver forming zone, 147
sliver hank, 161
sliver number, 161
sliver uniformity percentage, 154–5
slough off, 188
slubs, 188
snap fasteners, 471
sodium alginate, 356–7
soft bobbin, 188
intelligent control system, 36–9
closed-loop fuzzy control system, 36
membership functions of input and output variables, 37
softeners, 393–6
emulsion types properties, 395
influence on textile properties, 393–4
quality control tests, 394
soil condition, 97
soil-release finish, 409–10
finishing effects, 410
nature of soil, 410
nature of substrate, 410
solar protection factor (SPF), 412–13
solution spinning, 114
sowing density, 99
sowing seed, 98
sowing time, 99
spacer, 183
speed frame, 234–5
elements, 181–5
machine productivity, 184–5
material handling, 185
between row variation, 184
future trends, 189
process control operations, 158–89
yearn quality and process control defects, 185–9
defects and their causes, 187–9
spin finish, 119–21
spin-line stress, 118
spinning, 110
Spinning Consistency Index (SCI), 87
different zones, 192–3
passage of yarn in ring spinning, 192
factors in ring spinning, 195–201
balloon height effect, 200–1
ring diameter effect, 200
spindle speed effect, 196–7
traveller mass effect, 197–9
traveller/ring friction effect, 199
theoretical models of ring spinning, 193–5
forces acting on the traveller, 194
spinning triangle, 208–9
course direction due to multiple feeders, 257
spirality angle in single jersey structure, 258
spreading, 429
process variables and process control, 292–5
material variables, 295
off-line variables and control, 295
operational/online variables and control, 294–5
spunlaid process diagram, 293
standard deviation (SD), 46–7
critical difference, 48–53
decision-making using control charts, 57–9
fabric properties testing, 75–8
hypothesis testing, 59–61
measurement concepts, 42–8
central tendency, 44–5
sampling error, 48
variation, 45–8
overview, 41–2
significance testing, 61–72
't', 'F tests and chi-square method, 53–7
testing in textile manufacturing, 41–78
process control, 376–80
blower, 379
bow and heading controllers, 378
chamber temperature, 378
chemical concentration, 379–80
clips and pins, 380
drying efficiency, 380
dwell time, 378
expanders and uncurlers, 379
fabric width, 379
leakages of thermic fluid, 379
overfeeding, 378–9
temperature and viscosity of finishing bath, 380
thermic fluid oil temperature, 380
underfeeding, 379
Step Response Process Reaction Method, 33–34
stitch cam setting, 247
stitch density, 249
storage, 453–4
stretching, 110
stroke frequency, 282–3
substances of very high concern (SVHC), 361
disperse dye and polyester dyeing, 316–20
continuous dyeing, 319–20
exhaust dyeing, 318–19
factors, 317–18
process control, 318
dyeing, 315–22
nylon, 320–2
chemical structures of nylon 6.6 and 6, 320
disperse dyeing, 321–2
polyester and dyeing properties, 315–16
manufacturing process control, 109–30
control points, 127–30
drawing and heat setting, 122–7
future trends, 130
overview, 109–11
polymerisation and fibre spinning, 111–22
system capability, 136
't' test, 53–7
quality evaluation of apparel, 454–63
Fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST), 458–63
Kawabata evaluation system, 455–8
low-stress mechanical problems, 454–5
take-down load, 247
technological parameters, 137
temperature influence, 305
terminal voltage, 16
basic finishing machines, 373–6
drying and curing, 375–6
padding mangle, 373–5
instrumental, 365–9
flow-meters, 367–9
process control, 363–425
anti-pilling finish, 405–7
calendering process, 380–4
finishing with alkali, 389–93
fire damage protection and water penetration, 401–5
future trends, 425
low-liquor finishing, 417–21
other types of finishing, 407–13
plasma treatments, 421–4
resin finishes, 396–401
softeners, 393–6
surface raising and pre-shrinking finishes, 385–9
wool treatment and enzyme finishes, 413–17
stenter machines, 376–80
blower, 379
controllers, 378
chamber temperature, 378
chemical concentration, 379–80
clips and pins, 380
drying efficiency, 380
dwell time, 378
expanders and uncurlers, 379
finishing bath viscosity and temperature, 380
nip pressure, 378
thermic fluid, 379
thermic fluid oil temperature, 380
underfeeding, 379
control system principles, 14–39
application in textile processing, 39
components, 18–28
design process, 28–34
digital control system, 34–6
intelligent control systems using soft computing, 36–9
overview, 14–18
process control basics, 3–13
future trends, 11–13
overview, 3–5
process mapping, analysis, 5–9
statistical process control (SPC) and improving processes, 9–11
testing and statistical quality control, 41–78
critical difference, 48–53
decision-making using control charts, 57–9
fabric properties testing, 75–8
fibre and yarn properties testing, 72–5
hypothesis testing, 59–61
measurement concepts, 42–8
overview, 41–2
significance testing, 61–72
't', 'F tests and chi-square method, 53–7
process control in dyeing, 300–38
batchwise dyeing machines, 326–34
blends, 322–6
continuous dyeing machines, 334–8
cotton, 302–15
synthetic materials, 315–22
process control, 339–62
direct printing, 339–45
discharge, resist and heat transfer printing, 345–8
inkjet printing and ink-jet printing machines, 353–60
product safety and low-carbon production, 360–1
roller and screen printing machines, 348–53
Thermosol, 319
threading, 383
three term controller, 27–8
throughput, 294
tillage, 98–9
top comb, 174–5
top roller, 160
hardness, 183
pressure, 183
total handle value (THV), 458
total productive maintenance (TPM), 236–8
transducers, 18
d.c. motor, 31
determination of delay time (D) and time constant (T) from S-curve, 33
transmitter, 18–19
instrumentation amplifier, 19
traveller friction, 199
traveller mass, 197–9
traveller weight, 212
tuck, 248
Twaddell hydrometer, 391
twist factor, 219
twist loss, 217–20
affecting factors, 219–20
mechanism in rotor spinning, 218–19
twist propagation, 209–11
twist flow over a doff variation, 210–11
twist flow within a chase variation, 211
twist variability, 54–5
twist variation, 208–13
affecting factors, 211–13
two-stage method, 341
ultraviolet protection factor (UPF), 412–13
autoleveller, 167–8
illustration, 168
Sliver test, 169
unity gain inverting amplifier, 21
unplanned maintenance, 226
Uster IntelliGin, 94–6
check points, 96
illustration, 95
UV protection finish, 412–13
wales per inch, 249
warp breakage rate, 268
water jet pressure, 286
profile, 287
water repellant finishes, 402–5
surface tension and surface energy of few liquids and fibres, 403
fabric quality control, 269
loom productivity and efficiency, 267–9
online process control, 269–70
process control, 265–78
controlling loom productivity, efficiency and fabric quality, 267–9
cost control, 276–8
main elements, 267
online, quality control and monitoring, 269–76
system for producing fabrics, 266
quality control and monitoring, 270–6
Barco automatic loom inspection and monitoring systems, 275
Cyclops automatic on loom fabric inspection system, 276
fabric inspection unit, 271
on-loom inspection system of Elbit Vision System, 275
Uster Fabriscan inspection system, 273
weaving efficiency, 268
weed control, 99–100
weft tension, 268
wet spinning, 114
wire maintenance, 149–50
wire points, 148
wire teeth, 148–9
wool crabbing, 415–16
wool decatising, 414–15
checking and testing, 244–5
checking material parameters, 245
relationship between yarn properties and knitted fabric qualities, 245
yarn defects effect on fabric appearance, 246
density, 75
fineness, 74
input tension, 247
package dyeing machines, 327–9
load requirements for yarn package, 329
package density, 328
package mounting, 328
schematic, 328
yarn count, 153–7
blowroom issues, 153–4
card issues, 154
process control problems, 155–7
high variation in blowroom material, 155–6
hole or patches in card web, 157
nep formation in cards, 156–7
nep formation in the blowroom, 156
poor cleaning efficiency in the blowroom, 156
yarn feeding rate, 247
drawing impact, 164–6
maintenance, 225–39
future trends, 236–9
overview, 225–31
ring and rotor spinning machine, 235–6
spinning preparatory machine, 231–5
affecting factors, 215–16
theoretical model, 213–14
yarn test data, 51–3
average and minimum CSP, 52–3
pinion changes in spinning frame, 51–2
yarn evenness between samples, 52
Zellweger Uster, 272
zippers, 465–8
colourfastness to dry-cleaning, light and crocking, 466
colourfastness to laundering, 466
durability of finish of zippers to dry-cleaning, 466
durability of finish of zippers to laundering, 465–6
operability, 467
resistance to salt spray, 466
strength tests, 467–8
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